<br><br> <div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Aug 10, 2012 at 9:53 PM, Ron Nossaman <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:rnossaman@cox.net" target="_blank">rnossaman@cox.net</a>></span> wrote:<br> <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PADDING-LEFT:1ex" class="gmail_quote"> <div class="im">On 8/10/2012 9:23 PM, Rob McCall wrote:<br> <blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PADDING-LEFT:1ex" class="gmail_quote">I did notice that you had drawn lines to guide your work. Is there a<br>dimension that works the best without weakening the key? Or as I<br> suspect, is it more of a wild *** guess based on years of experience<br>and broken keysticks? ;-)<br></blockquote><br></div>I never had one break. Cut on the diagonal, it's still plenty strong even as I remove AS MUCH WEIGHT as I can. The lines just give me a target short of the corner or key top. I could have drilled big holes instead, but a Buck 303 fits in my pocket easier.<br> Ron N<br></blockquote></div> <div><br>Sorry Ron I missed your Journal T&T article I've been doing this for years,</div> <div>You're probably right about this particular key, I haven't used your "whittling" technique although it makes sense I have seen keysticks from old uprights with cutawys similar to yours.<br clear="all"> <br>-- <br> <br><span>I think we are a product of all our experiences.</span> <br><span><a href="http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/s/sanfordiw283095.html" target="_blank">Sanford I. Weill</a></span> <br><br>Michael Magness<br> Magness Piano Service<br>608-786-4404<br><a href="http://www.ifixpianos.com/" target="_blank">www.IFixPianos.com</a><br>email <a href="mailto:mike@ifixpianos.com" target="_blank">mike@ifixpianos.com</a><br></div>