<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">Thanks to all for the suggestions. I'll have to look at my tenon cutters - I know I have a 3/8" and maybe a 1/4" - and then order either the 3/8" or 1/4" screw extractor - preferring the smaller to minimize cutting of the bridge. I wish I were as resourceful as Ron N - and/or had the skills and motivation, but I think I'll opt for the slightly $$ier but easier route of just buying the stuff. Thanks again.<div><br></div><div>Terry Farrell</div><div><br></div><div>PS: I mean my "friend" will buy an extractor - and, and I'll likely lend him my tenon cutters...... ;-)</div><div><br><div><div>On Aug 11, 2012, at 8:55 PM, Nicholas Gravagne wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite">Terry,<br><br>Your friend may be interested in this little tidbit :)<br><br>I posted this little idea on this list a while back. <br><br>First, make small pattern of the bridge holes for later use. Next use a hollow screw extractor like Issac suggests. Remember, the pin is at an angle. There is no way to really do a nice neat job at this phase of the repair. Once the root canal is done, fill the hole with a dowel, glue in and trim flush with the top of the bridge. The purpose of the dowel is solely to provide some material for a 1/2" forstner bit brad point to center on. <br>
<br>Next, use your 1/2" plug cutter to make a maple plug (1/2" should work). Note the direction of the maple material as to planing with and not against the grain, and mark your plug accordingly. With the forstner, drill down to a depth a bit less than the height of your plug. Glue in your plug; it should stick up a bit and will extend partly into the notch area. Trim down with a sharp chisel, sand smooth and DAG the area. <br>
<br>Next re-drill your bridge hole (or two holes) and chisel-cut the notch in your usual way. See photos. <br><br>Nick<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 4:09 PM, Terry Farrell <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com" target="_blank">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Ummmm, a "friend" asked me to pose the question: How best to extract a broken drill bit from a bridge pin hole? The top (broken end) of the bit is about 1/8" below the top of the bridge. Any suggestions short of gouging out a hunk of bridge?<br>
<br>
If I get a good suggestion, I'll pass it on to my "friend". ;-(<br>
<br>
Thanks!<br>
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
Terry Farrell </font></span></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Nick Gravagne, RPT<br>AST Mechanical Engineering<br>
<span><Bad BR hole.jpg></span><span><Forstner.jpg></span><span><Plugged BR Holes.jpg></span><span><Maple Plugs.jpg></span><span><Plug Trimming.jpg></span></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>