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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Hi Jim:<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>I’ve used the SEM High Build Primer, and think it is fantastic stuff – builds nice and sands incredibly easily. I found that using scotch Brite pads – the coarser Red and the finer Grey were the way to go, because they will far more readily conform to the curved surfaces of a piano plate, yet level the primer very easily. But I used it based on the recommendation of my auto paint guy, and he assured me that the auto paint urethanes that I followed it with would be compatible. It was. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>As for excessive build up around your agraffes, that has not been a problem for me using this primer. Don’t try to do too much in one coat, and follow the spray schedule recommended for these catalyzed auto paints. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Will<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext'> pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Jim Ialeggio<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, August 21, 2012 9:19 AM<br><b>To:</b> pianotech@ptg.org<br><b>Subject:</b> [pianotech] More agraffes...kind'a<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Al said:<br><br><Since the nitro can't re-solvate a catalyzed primer, you need a good mechanical bond. It's hard to get a good sanding in the recesses. <br><br>right, so those limitations, regrading bonding, define the task as a failure from the start, if you can't adequately prep the recesses which make up a large portion of the acreage. Seems to makes more sense to shoot for a chemical bond from the start.<br><br>Though I will say the SEM high build primer I was using was not catalyzed, and could be solvent melted. So I'm not sure it was a bonding, rather than a compatibility issue. <br><br>Jim Ialeggio<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>-- <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Jim Ialeggio <o:p></o:p></pre><pre><a href="mailto:jim@grandpianosolutions.com">jim@grandpianosolutions.com</a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>978 425-9026<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Shirley Center, MA<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p> </o:p></pre></div></body></html>