<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:dt="uuid:C2F41010-65B3-11d1-A29F-00AA00C14882" xmlns:m="http://schemas.microsoft.com/office/2004/12/omml" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"><head><meta http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"><meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1>I have long done something very similar to what David does.  It does not take long, and it is not hard to do at all.  There is another added advantage in that you can change the height of the back check to customize it to the hammers.  Having the back checks at the right height for the individual  piano will improve the checking.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>Will Truitt<o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'>From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of David Love Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 7:02 PM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Steinway back checks<o:p></o:p></div></div><o:p> </o:p>Agreed, no weight issue.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p>I’ve just found it easier.  Extracting the old wires from the keys takes no longer than removing the old leather and cleaning the residue (faster in fact).  You shouldn’t have to glue any key end block.  I use the following procedure (see photos attached).  Set up your drill press next to the bench vise.  Extract the old ones securing the end blocks in a vise and just pry them out with a wooden dowel and (okay joe) an old pair of wire cutters to grip the wires.   The vise will keep the end blocks from detaching.  After indexing the drill press to press them in the right depth, make the following jig which matches the angle of the holes drilled in the back end of the key.  Use a stop block on the end of the jig to index the key position on the slope.  The sandpaper keeps the key from slipping.  Sometimes you have to open the hole in the back of the key a bit depending on whether the new wires are a match in diameter for the old ones.  Secure the check with one hand as you get it started and press it in as it may tend to want to buckle over.  <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p><div>David Love<o:p></o:p><a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com">www.davidlovepianos.com</a><o:p></o:p></div><o:p> </o:p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'>From: <a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a> [<a href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org">mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of David Skolnik Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 2:44 PM To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a> Subject: Re: [pianotech] Steinway back checks<o:p></o:p></div></div><o:p> </o:p>I didn't mean to imply there was, in fact, a weight issue.  I just didn't want to focus on that, in case there was.  I suppose one could cordially argue whether one method is easier than the other (recovering requires no extracting, regluing of loose damper blocks, releveling, rebending of wires) but it's hardly worth it, unless everything else is right with the world.  As for gluing fingers together, I presumed that's one of the reasons to have the band saw handy. David Skolnik Hastings on Hudson, NY <o:p></o:p><o:p> </o:p></div></body></html>