<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>So, here again, is my "gauche" suggestion for protecting grand blocks from humidity: get a roll of thick metal foil tape from a proper HVAC supply store (not the cheapo-stuff sold by Lowe&#39;s, Home Depot and etc.) and put it on the block underside. (Maybe a good idea to shellac the block, too: on all sides.) <br /><br />Thumpe</div></td></tr></table>            <div id="_origMsg_">
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span>
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                            Ed Foote &lt;a440a@aol.com&gt;;                            <br>
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold:">To:</span>
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                             &lt;pianotech@ptg.org&gt;;                                                                                                     <br>
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold:">Subject:</span>
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                            Re: [pianotech] Blocks                            <br>
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                                <span style="font-weight:bold;">Sent:</span>
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                            Tue, Oct 23, 2012 9:19:01 PM                            <br>
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                                        <td valign="top" style="font:inherit;">Ron writes:<BR>&gt;&gt; ,It's not how many times a year you look, it's how many seasonal <BR>extremes they've been through. I don't understand why the concept of wood under compression crushing cumulatively with big humidity cycles is such a tough concept.&lt;<BR><BR>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; It is a simple concept. I am of the opinion that it isn't a problem on the blocks I have direct experience with.&nbsp; Some of these pianos I am talking about got their blocks in the early 1980's. If I don't see any appreciable lateral movement of the pin through the block after 30 years, I am not going to let that be a determining factor in my technique.<BR>Ed Foote RPT<BR></td>
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