<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>Maybe we need to define the "epoxy" here. West's-type stuff, or the water-thin variety? (And where does one get the best water-thin variety, by the way, as was used on that bridge repair video I bought, to put around bridge pins with a hypo, to soak into and fill up tiny cracks?)<br /><br />Thumpe</div></td></tr></table> <div id="_origMsg_">
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Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net>; <br>
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<pianotech@ptg.org>; <br>
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Re: [pianotech] English Overdamper piano pinblocks <br>
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Mon, Nov 5, 2012 3:05:37 AM <br>
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<td valign="top" style="font:inherit;">On 11/4/2012 7:44 PM, Dean May wrote:<BR>> I've never seen a pinblock that didn't have at least a couple of<BR>> laminations. But the cross section of piano I see in rural Indiana is<BR>> admittedly pretty limited.<BR><BR>Mine too. Sounds to me that this one is a garden gnome that just hasn't been moved outside yet. I'd say leave it alone if the pins aren't loose, but if it were going to be glued...<BR><BR><BR>> But I do have a fair amount of experience with the CA. I'll stand by the<BR>> recommendation: CA first to deep penetrate, then epoxy to fill the gaps.<BR>> Knowing there are no laminations makes it even more important, IMHO, to use<BR>> the CA, so it will soak and support the inadequate construction. Epoxy just<BR>> will not go into the cellular structure of the wood like CA will, unless you<BR>> thin it first, then you lose strength as you
know. Epoxy bonds surface to<BR>> surface.<BR><BR>I've had a fair amount of experience with both epoxy and CA, and I disagree with this big time. The CA won't do anything useful except soak in, and it will prevent the epoxy from doing any good as a result, by leaving it nothing to stick to. Epoxy by itself will penetrate to the bottom of the crack, and into the surrounding wood plenty good enough to make a first rate bond if the wood isn't already contaminated with CA.<BR>Ron N<BR></td>
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