<div><div>Dry heat. With a heat gun just heat both sides of the joint gently and then just pop them off with a pair of removing pliers. The heat turns the glue kind or rubbery and they will come off easily. I do a group of about 15 or so at a time. Heat the residue at the end of the shank again after extraction to more easily clean that off with what they call a shank reducer but should really be set up so that it does nothing more than remove the residue without reducing the shank diameter.</div><div><br/></div><div>David Love</div><div><a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com">www.davidlovepianos.com</a></div><div>415.407.8320</div><div><br/></div></div><br><br>Byeway222@aol.com wrote:<br><br><FONT
id=role_document color=#4b6a74 size=2 face="Microsoft Sans Serif">
<DIV>When you say 'heat' David, are you suggesting dry or damp? I recently
used Trim & Moulding for the first time and I am very impressed with
it. However, I now realise that I am not entirely happy with the boring
angles on some of the pre-bored Abel hammers and want to remove some and
re bore. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Richard</DIV></FONT>