<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>Thanks, Del! Thumpe By the way: I just picked up an art-case Bush and Lane grand with a TERRIFIC bass for a 5'4" (sounds more like a good S&S "M"). But no agraffes in the bass: just a REALLY thick pressure bar, with a bunch of hexscrews holding it down! (I'll send photos when I can.)</div></td></tr></table> <div id="_origMsg_"> <div style="font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif:font-size:10pt"> <div style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"> <hr size="1"> From: Delwin D Fandrich <del@fandrichpiano.com>; To: <pianotech@ptg.org>; Subject: Re: [pianotech] Worst Bass/Tenor Crossover in Universe Sent: Thu, Jan 10, 2013 5:02:23 PM <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" style="font:inherit;"><div class="WordSection1">If your epoxy-coated or saturated bridge tops are feeling “sticky” or “plastic-y” they I’d suggest you are doing something wrong and a few things come to mind:—    You’re using the wrong epoxy. To saturate something like a bridge surface (i.e., maple or some such) it needs to be fairly thin stuff. You don’t want to be using the cheap goopy stuff they sell down at Wal-Mart. —    You’re mixing it incorrectly (i.e., the mix ratios are off). Or not enough (common problem).—    It’s out of date. Most epoxy formulations are fairly stable these days but they do have a shelflife. If you don’t use a lot of the stuff grab a felt pen and write the purchase date on the container. Time flies.—    You’re putting it on too thick. You don’t need all that much and you’re going to sand most of it away.—    You’re not letting it cure long enough. Just because your epoxy may get “hard” in a few hours doesn’t mean it has fully cured. That may take a few days or a couple of weeks.—    If you’re really, really concerned with the friction between the strings and the bridge surface—you don’t need to be but in spite of all known logic some are—you can mix a little graphite powder into the epoxy. Then when you lightly block sand the surface you get a nice, black (well, gray-black) surface with at least a moderately lubricous surface. (Keep it off the notches.)  ddf  Delwin D FandrichPiano Design & Fabrication6939 Foothill Court SW, Olympia, Washington 98512 USAPhone  360.515.0119 — Cell  360.388.6525<a rel="nofollow" ymailto="mailto:del@fandrichpiano.com" target="_blank" href="javascript:return">del@fandrichpiano.com </a>— <a rel="nofollow" ymailto="mailto:ddfandrich@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="javascript:return">ddfandrich@gmail.com</a>  From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Euphonious Thumpe Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 6:45 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: [pianotech] Worst Bass/Tenor Crossover in Universe  <table class="MsoNormalTable" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" width="624" style='width:468.0pt;margin-left:36.0pt;'><tr><td valign="top" style='padding:0cm 0cm 0cm 0cm;'><div>Thanks, Ron! You know BOODLES more than I about rebuilding, and I'm grateful for the affirmation regarding the efficacy of an epoxy-soaked bridge. BUT I know that a dense material transmits vibration better than a less dense one (hence the superior transmission of sound through water) so filling the interstices in the cellular structure of the wood MUST have some benefit according to the Laws of Physics, although whether it would be perceptible to the ear remains a question. And as for the bridge-top lube: I was particularly concerned about some plastic-y "stickiness" that the epoxy-might present, but if no-one else here has witnessed it, am relieved to hear it. Thumpe</div></td></tr></table><div id="_origMsg_"><div>  <div><div class="MsoNormal" align="center" style='margin-left:36.0pt;text-align:center;'><hr size="1" width="100%" align="center"></div>  </div></div></div></div></td> </tr> </tbody> </table> </div> </div> </div>