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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I am also predominately a left handed tuner even
though I'm right handed. Go figure. I guess I always felt more comfortable
playing the intervals, etc. with my right hand. Anyway, as others have
mentioned, I also tap the pitch down a "tick" until the friction point breaks,
but usually only on pianos that I know are already tightly strung, or are old
and may have rusty strings. Regarding the elasiticy thing, when I run across
those strings that I sense are borderlining the breaking point, I usually switch
to right handed position, especially in uprights, and put the hammer at the 2-3
o'clock position and use a nudging method to inch them to pitch. I seem to be
able to do smaller increments this way without stretching the string too much
before the pin actually moves in the pinblock. This has saved me countless
broken strings because tuning right you don't need to bring the pin out of the
cradle to raise the pitch. Tuning left lifts the pin out of the cradle,
then you have to turn the pin, so you wind up going a tad sharper when tuning
left, then right. So, on tight strings, I switch to right handed technique
and it's worked wonderful for me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>As Ron said, if they're going to break, they
will...but this has seemed to help me loads!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>Richard W. Bushey<BR>Richard's Piano Service<BR><A
href="http://www.RichardsPianoService.com">www.RichardsPianoService.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.RichardsPianoService.com/blog">www.RichardsPianoService.com/blog</A><BR><A
href="mailto:Rbushey@RichardsPianoService.com">Rbushey@RichardsPianoService.com</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>573-765-9903</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=deanmay@pianorebuilders.com
href="mailto:deanmay@pianorebuilders.com">Dean May</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:28
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning
time (was Re: frustrated)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=WordSection1>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">That
isn't my experience. I may tap the pitch down if strings are rusty to break
friction points, but I almost always do a steady pull to bring up, and very
rarely break strings. If you pay attention, you can tell if the string is
running out of elasticity and nearing the breaking point. If that happens,
then resort to the bump methods, or just tune the piano a little flat to avoid
breakage. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">I
always use TuneLab for pitch raises. Before TuneLab I did break more strings
on pitch raises. My conclusion is that previously I was just raising the pitch
too sharp. <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Lucida Calligraphy'; COLOR: navy; FONT-SIZE: 20pt">Dean</SPAN></B><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'CAC Leslie','serif'; COLOR: navy; FONT-SIZE: 20pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></B></P>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 3pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'AGaramond','serif'; COLOR: navy; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Dean W
May
(812) 235-5272 voice and text <o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 3pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'AGaramond','serif'; COLOR: navy; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">PianoRebuilders.com
(888) DEAN-MAY </SPAN><SPAN
style="COLOR: #1f497d"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'AGaramond','serif'; COLOR: navy; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Terre
Haute IN 47802</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>John Ashcraft<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:56
PM<BR><B>To:</B> pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech] Reducing
tuning time (was Re: frustrated)<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal>I would put out a general caution on the slow-drag method:
it is appropriate on pianos that are close to pitch. If you use it in a pitch
raise, you're inviting strings to break. Use a downward pull, then a quick
upward impulse, or series of impulses, to raise--not a steady
pull.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt" class=MsoNormal>--John Ashcraft<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>On Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 3:14 PM, Encore Pianos <<A
href="mailto:encorepianos@metrocast.net"
target=_blank>encorepianos@metrocast.net</A>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">On
occasion I do the same thing as Susan while using this method.
</SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">While
no one method works on all pinblocks (nothing works on some!), this slow drag
is my go to day to day tuning method. It works well with most pianos,
not just the trouble monsters. Generally, as I am dragging the pin up to
pitch I am hitting the note a couple of times per second. If you have a
nice tuning rhythm going, you’ll get a feeling of just when the pin is going
to drop in and land on a dime on the octaves, and the unisons as well.
When the piano has a reasonably good block, I can hit it on the first
try 75 to 80% of the time, and be stable – even in the top octave. I
also use this method when doing concert tuning. </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Will
Truitt</SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri','sans-serif'; COLOR: #1f497d; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"> </SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">From:</SPAN></B><SPAN
style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Tahoma','sans-serif'; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"> <A
href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org"
target=_blank>pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A> [mailto:<A
href="mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org"
target=_blank>pianotech-bounces@ptg.org</A>] <B>On Behalf Of </B>John
Ashcraft<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 22, 2013 4:27
PM</SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><BR><B>To:</B> <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"
target=_blank>pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [pianotech]
Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></P>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal>I use that (ease up in pitch with vigorous blows) technique on
old Knabe grands, to name the certain kind of piano where I find the technique
necessary.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal>--John Ashcraft<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal>On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Susan Kline <<A
href="mailto:skline@peak.org" target=_blank>skline@peak.org</A>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New'">There is a certain
kind of piano which I find has better stability if I very slowly ease up
<BR>to the pitch but not beyond, beating pretty vigorously on the note as I
go. <BR><BR>If one pulls the pitch over, and then attempts to bang it back
down, one should go as little <BR>over as possible. The smaller the
adjustments, the better the stability will be. <BR><SPAN
style="COLOR: #888888"><BR>Susan</SPAN></SPAN><o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal><BR>Elwood Doss wrote: <o:p></o:p></P><PRE>IF you want to keep your customers, especially those with discriminating hearing, you will be sure to set the strings and pins. Not only will strings and pins relax and go out of tune while you're tuning but often they will slowly relax and go out of tune after the piano tuner is gone. Also when the customer is playing the piano the strings can slip out of tune. Time is important, but that 10 minutes you save could cost you customers. It is tempting to pull the string up to pitch and leave it, but I would resist the temptation, especially if you want to have a lasting quality outcome.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Joy!<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Elwood Doss, Jr.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>-----Original Message-----<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>From: Duaine Hechler [<A href="mailto:dahechler@att.net" target=_blank>mailto:dahechler@att.net</A>] <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 5:36 PM<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>To: <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target=_blank>pianotech@ptg.org</A><o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: frustrated)<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>The one thing that, in my last couple of tunings, I am trying to do is to concentrate on - not - going way sharp before honing in on the unisons. I shaved off about 10 minutes, the last couple of times.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Do most of you come up to pitch or go sharp then come back down?<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>I learned to go sharp then come back down, except in the high tenor, I seem to here it better coming up to pitch.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Thanks, Duaine<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>On 01/12/2013 04:41 PM, Mike Kurta wrote:<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-TOP: 5pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 5pt"><PRE> I had my wife sew two lengths together. Voila! Now I have only <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>one mute strip to contend with. Length is no problem, when I put it away I fold it in half length, half again, and lay it in my case. Easy.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> Mike Kurta<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> ----- Original Message -----<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> *From:* Ron Nossaman <A href="mailto:rnossaman@cox.net" target=_blank><mailto:rnossaman@cox.net></A><o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> *To:* <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target=_blank>pianotech@ptg.org</A> <A href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" target=_blank><mailto:pianotech@ptg.org></A><o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> *Sent:* Saturday, January 12, 2013 9:45 AM<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> *Subject:* Re: [pianotech] Reducing tuning time (was Re: <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>frustrated)<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> On 1/12/2013 8:06 AM, <A href="mailto:tunerboy3@comcast.net" target=_blank>tunerboy3@comcast.net</A> <A href="mailto:tunerboy3@comcast.net" target=_blank><mailto:tunerboy3@comcast.net></A> wrote:<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > You order it like one solid piece, something like 72" or 84" long or<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > so, and cut to desired length or, don't cut it at all. I ordered 6<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > or 10 of them so I could experiment with it. I wound up cutting one<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > of them down the center all the way and using that one in the treble.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> I cut a strip diagonally down it's length and get two tapered lengths.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> Ideal in verticals to get around the dampers in that last section where<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> there's no room - especially in Baldwins. A full width strip works very<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> well in the bass, or two of them if one leaks too much. Pearl River<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> passed out a terrific strip at the convention one year. Thin action<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> cloth sewed to buckskin (or Ecsaine, but it acts like buckskin). Best<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> tenor strip I've ever used in grands. I've wished I had managed to get a<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> couple more, but they were pretty protective of them and they wouldn't<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> be difficult to make when the one I have gives up the ghost.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > I don't now why but string spacing tends to<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> > be a little greater in the tenor on verticals than in the treble.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> Fan angles, I'd say. I use a narrow strip of thicker action cloth here.<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> Ron N<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE><PRE>--<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Duaine Hechler<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE>Piano, Player Piano, Pump Organ - Tuning, Servicing & Rebuilding<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE><A href="tel:%28314%29%20838-5587" target=_blank>(314) 838-5587</A> / <A href="mailto:dahechler@att.net" target=_blank>dahechler@att.net</A> / <A href="http://www.hechlerpianoandorgan.com" target=_blank>www.hechlerpianoandorgan.com</A> Home & Business user of Linux - 13 years<o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE><PRE> <o:p></o:p></PRE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></P></DIV>
<P style="mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto"
class=MsoNormal>No virus found in this message.<BR>Checked by AVG - <A
href="http://www.avg.com">www.avg.com</A><BR>Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus
Database: 2638/6027 - Release Date: 01/12/13<BR>Internal Virus Database is out
of date.<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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