<p>Hi Gregg,<br>
Thanks for sharing.<br>
Does the Konig French polish works on polyester surface scratches?<br></p>
<p>Lim</p>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Jan 28, 2013 10:43 AM, "Douglas Gregg" <<a href="mailto:classicpianodoc@gmail.com">classicpianodoc@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
Gregor,<br>
It is strange that the German Konig site does not advertise Special<br>
French Polish. I checked my bottle and it is imported. The phone<br>
number in Europe is <a href="tel:%2B49%20%280%29%2061%2001%20-%2053%2060%200" value="+49610153600">+49 (0) 61 01 - 53 60 0</a>.<br>
<br>
You should be able to get the Special French Polish in Europe. The<br>
method is much simpler than traditional French Polish as a lubricant<br>
is included in the shellac so that it is only one step. Make a pad<br>
with a ball of wool or gauze and wrap it very tightly with a 20 cm<br>
square of well washed old Tee shirt that is stretchy. I use a golf<br>
ball sized pad or smaller. There should be no creases or folds in the<br>
application surface. On a new pad, first open the cover cloth and wet<br>
the gauze well with Konig French polish but not so that it will drip<br>
when squeezed hard. Put the cover back on and put about 10 more drops<br>
on the stretched surface of the pad. The pad should be just damp<br>
enough so that when you tap it on the back of your hand, it is just<br>
damp. Keep it stretched by twisting the remaining cloth on the back<br>
of the pad and hold onto the twisted part. Practice on a scrap piece<br>
of a finished piece of wood like an upright piano top or key cover or<br>
other furniture piece. It should be at least 20 cm square. Start by<br>
coming down on the wood from a low angle without stopping- Like<br>
landing and airplane. The application should be in a circular motion<br>
that is fairly rapid. You can make overlapping circles and move around<br>
until the whole piece is finished. The pad will leave a slight trail<br>
on the finished area. This is drying shellac that should be drying<br>
almost instantly. You will have to replenish the pad with about 10<br>
drops of polish every few minutes. Watch for the trail of drying<br>
shellac. When it does not leave a trail, replenish. You can work a<br>
piece with several applications on the same area before it starts to<br>
get a bit sticky. This may take up to 30 minutes of polishing. You may<br>
be done before that happens. If it gets sticky, let it dry for about<br>
30 minutes and resume polishing. When you have polished it<br>
sufficiently, take some long swipes with the grain to remove any swirl<br>
marks. These should be minimal. Let it dry and you are done. It can be<br>
waxed or not the next day. This is a very brief description. I have a<br>
video but have not put it on the web yet for lack of time and<br>
knowledge of the process to post it. It is on my to do list.<br>
<br>
I am sorry that there is not one on the web. I have looked and have<br>
not found a decent one. Konig does sell a rather good video on this<br>
and other techniques that is well worth buying. It also tells how to<br>
do scratch and dent repair with Konig hard wax and retouching with<br>
their markers and other techniques. I have been doing this kind of<br>
work for years and learned some good techniques from their video. Good<br>
luck. Be sure to practice on one or two pieces first. It does not take<br>
long to learn, even on your own.<br>
<br>
Doug Gregg<br>
Classic Piano Doc<br>
<a href="http://www.classicpianodoc.com" target="_blank">www.classicpianodoc.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2013 11:15:26 +0100<br>
From: Gregor _ <<a href="mailto:karlkaputt@hotmail.com">karlkaputt@hotmail.com</a>><br>
To: "<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [pianotech] How to remove scratches<br>
Message-ID: <DUB104-W22898FC8B35B3E8EB74575D41A0@phx.gbl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
<br>
Doug, that?s interesting. I found the USA website of K?nig and found<br>
French Polish. But on the German Site there is no Schellack or French<br>
Polish. I attented a class at K?nig about scratch repair with the<br>
focus on Polyester, but all other surfaces were tought as well. I<br>
don?t remember that they offer French Polish in Germany.<br>
<br>
How do you use the French Polish? As a quick and dirty method just<br>
applying with a bale or do you prepare the surface? What would you do<br>
with the fallboard example form Michael?<br>
<br>
Gregor<br>
<br>
------------------------<br>
piano technician - tuner - dealer<br>
M?nster, Germany<br>
<a href="http://www.weldert.de" target="_blank">www.weldert.de</a><br>
<br>
<br>
> Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:36:20 -0500<br>
> From: <a href="mailto:classicpianodoc@gmail.com">classicpianodoc@gmail.com</a><br>
> To: <a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a><br>
> Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches<br>
><br>
> Michael,<br>
> I repair such scratches all the time with French polishing. I gave a<br>
> seminar on it in Seattle. It is quite easy to do. It works so well for<br>
> this kind of thing because it only adds a thin layer of shellac and<br>
> there is no risk as there is with sanding and polishing. The beauty of<br>
> French polishing is it fills the scratches selectively without<br>
> building up finish on the non-scratched area. That is, it fills the<br>
> valleys up to the top of the hills leaving a glass-smooth surface. It<br>
> is also very safe and I often do it in the clients music room over an<br>
> Oriental carpet with no concern of odor or spills or overspray. I use<br>
> Konig Special French polish from <a href="http://www.konignorthamerica.com" target="_blank">www.konignorthamerica.com</a>. Or google<br>
> Konig french polish. They also have videos.<br>
><br>
> The alternate quick and dirty solution is to spray the fall board with<br>
> several coats of clear lacquer. Then fine sand and polish the new<br>
> lacquer without the danger of damaging the black underneath. I find<br>
> that polishing lacquer to a high polish is not that easy. I would sand<br>
> it with 400 and then 600 paper with water, dry, and then give a final<br>
> coat of spray that lays down flat. Do that outside if possible. The<br>
> fumes are strong. French polish still comes out better and is three<br>
> times as fast. There is no waiting for lacquer to dry and no sanding.<br>
><br>
> See my web site to see French polishing before, during, and after.<br>
> <a href="http://www.classicpianodoc.com" target="_blank">www.classicpianodoc.com</a><br>
><br>
> Doug Gregg<br>
> Classic piano Doc<br>
> Southold, NY<br>
><br>
> Message: 1<br>
> Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:00:01 -0800 (PST)<br>
> From: MICHAEL MEZHINSKY <<a href="mailto:pghpianotuning@yahoo.com">pghpianotuning@yahoo.com</a>><br>
> To: "pianotech@ptg.or" <<a href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</a>><br>
> Subject: [pianotech] How to remove scratches<br>
> Message-ID:<br>
> <<a href="mailto:1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com">1359075601.24779.YahooMailNeo@web160205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com</a>><br>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
><br>
> Hello,<br>
> Can anyone suggest how?to remove scratches on the black lacquer finish<br>
> fall board on a 1932 piano or make it look better?<br>
> The picture is attached.<br>
> Thanks for your help.<br>
> Michael Mezhinsky RPT<br>
</blockquote></div>