<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tr><td valign="top" style="font: inherit;"><div>Terry, thanks for all the useful information. But "a ton" of steel I wasn't suggesting (maybe just 20 pounds) as a means to help keep the rather flimsy-looking, open-faced block little thing from twisting during tuning, or pulling itself apart again. (The piano I'm doing this to is a huge, spectacular, beautifully-built Ivers and Pond. But one that had a noticeable bow along the top back. What could it hurt???) But if a more "traditional" look was wanted that would also help preclude twisting under tension, I'd recommend sawing out a flat panel of really strong laminated wood (marine plywood of a hefty thickness? recommendations, Mr. Boat Man???) in such a fashion so as to make a "back cover" for the piano that mirrors the posts and beams (leaving open spaces between the posts). Securely glued and screwed. (And I'd make it at least an inch
thick.)<br /><br />Thumpe</div></td></tr></table> <div id="_origMsg_">
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Terry Farrell <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>; <br>
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<pianotech@ptg.org>; <br>
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Re: [pianotech] First Pinbock <br>
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Sun, Feb 3, 2013 1:43:35 PM <br>
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<td valign="top" style="font:inherit;"><div>Perhaps rather than bolting a ton of iron to the back of the piano, I would first look at the backposts. I see they go all the way to the top of the piano. Is their integrity intact? are they in good alignment?</div><div><br></div><div>Assuming they are intact, I would take a little trip down Terry's Overkill Highway. Come take a little trip with me.........</div><div><br></div><div>As you suggested, I'd fill in the gaps between the posts. However, I'd fill the gaps with chunks of good strong hardwood. Hard maple is fine, but there are also a slew of ring-porous hardwoods that are very epoxy-bonding-friendly - white ash, red oak, etc. I would remove the 3/4" (or so) hardwood (I presume) strip on the very back top of the piano, cut hardwood blocks to fill the gaps between the posts, drill holes (1" or so) in the ends of the blocks (two or three)
and install hardwood dowels in the block end holes (1" red oak are commonly available and great for this application), then I'd drill/chisel/ poke/beat/chop/rout out holes in the side/rear of the post such that you can install the filler blocks, with the dowels sticking out the sides, between the posts from the rear.</div><div><br></div><div>Install the new pinblock as usual (with epoxy). As someone suggested, a pinblock flange/plate epoxy fit works great! I'd even consider taking a little side trip down Terry's Overkill Highway: Skip the mold-release on the flange and epoxy the darn pinblock in place TO the plate flange. Why not? After sanding the flange for the epoxy bond, sand that unthickened epoxy into the flange real well with very coarse sandpaper (like 50 grit or so) (see the two-step bond below).</div><div><br></div><div>And ALL my epoxy work would be done with West System #404 High Density Filler AND the West System Two
Step Bonding method. <a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/">http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/</a></div><div><br></div><div>Enjoy the trip should you elect to do so!</div><div><br></div><div>This really looks like a fairly easy project - it's all open and exposed - you don't have to remove the plate or anything - nothing but oodles of epoxy magic fun!</div><div><br></div><div>Please keep Kitty away until after the epoxy cures........ ;-)</div><div><br></div><div>I hope this helps!</div><div><br></div><div>Terry Farrell</div><br><div><div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div id="_origMsg_"><div style="font-family:arial, helvetica,;"><div style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt;"><font size="2" face="Tahoma">
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Noah Frere <<a rel="nofollow" ymailto="mailto:noahfrere@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="javascript:return">noahfrere@gmail.com</a>>; <br>
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[pianotech] First Pinbock <br>
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Sat, Feb 2, 2013 8:54:30 PM <br>
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<td valign="top" style="font:inherit;"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div>I'm about to replace my first Pinblock. It's on Mini Piano named Gerard, and one can follow the progress here: <br><br><a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.414081118675357.98495.146765508740254&type=1">https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.414081118675357.98495.146765508740254&type=1</a><br>
<br></div>The pinblock severely pulled away from the posts. It is a 3/4 plate, and there are large gaps behind the pinblock with no support. That's my current concern. I had epoxied and bolted the pinblock a few years ago, and it held for a couple years. My plan is to reread Chuck's Replacing the Pinblock series which was published a couple years ago in the Journal (and which I read at the time) and follow those steps. However, I believe<span><split.jpeg></span> I will need to add supports, fill in those gaps between the posts. <br>
<br></div>Any glaring issues or recommendations from you experienced rebuilders before I start?<br><br></div>Thanks!<br><br><br></div>
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