Ron-you wrote-- <div>People have for years been trying to tell me that tuning pins move back against the plate holes because the block rotates, ignoring the wide <pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"><tt>contact surface between block and plate that would prevent that. Ron N</tt></pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"> </pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif;">On epoxy bedding pinblocks in general, I consider it necessary. Looking at old pinblock takeouts,</pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif;"> I often see a millimeter of crush along the plate flange-  </pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif;">Ron N</pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif;"> </pre><pre> I would think that a mm of pinblock crush crush would account for the block moving forward enough under 40 K lbs</pre><pre>of string pressure to cause pins leaning against the plate holes that we often see in aged pinblocks,...</pre><pre> Especially in the bass where string tension is highest and plate holes often mysteriously the smallest.</pre><pre> Dale</pre><pre style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif; font-size: 9pt;"><tt> </tt></pre> <div style="color: navy; font-family: 'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; clear: both;">Dale Erwin R.P.T. Erwin's Piano Restoration Inc. Mason & Hamlin/Steinway/U.S. pianos www.Erwinspiano.com Phone: 209-577-8397 <tt><tt>     </tt></tt> </div> <div style="color: black; font-family: arial, helvetica; font-size: 10pt;">-----Original Message----- From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman@cox.net> To: pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Mon, Feb 4, 2013 6:09 am Subject: Re: [pianotech] First Pinblock <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_9e3d8e8c-cbbc-44bb-b16c-02e414263b2d" style="margin: 0px;font-family: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif;font-size: 12px;color: #000;background-color: #fff;"> <pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt> My first and continuing thought on the upright pinblock replacement, is how much of the other $20K+ of needed work is getting done with the pinblock replacement? On epoxy bedding pinblocks in general, I consider it necessary. Looking at old pinblock takeouts, I often see a millimeter of crush along the plate flange. Soaking that flange fit in epoxy on installation will reinforce that wood that is in immediate contact with the plate flange, and both reinforce and fill the minute gaps where it isn't. So instead of areas of high pressure contact next to areas of low pressure or no contact, the contact across the entire flange is uniform and as low pressure on average as possible, backed up by a thin layer of compression resistant epoxy impregnated pinblock material. The resulting crush resistance, I think, is where the improved stability comes from. For what it's worth, I only apply the epoxy as the plate goes in for the last time. I never saw the point in epoxy fitting the block to the flange, then taking it apart again. It does occur to me that for those who top fit blocks, that might make an easy separate step. Ron N </tt></pre> </div>  </div> </div>