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<font size=3>At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>For most thicknessing I use a big table saw,
or Sears rotary planer in a<br>
radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters,
while<br>
the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways
forces<br>
much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean 200...).
Most<br>
RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered.<br>
<br>
Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear out
I<br>
grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing
clearance<br>
by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. Feed
slow,<br>
should work fine.<br>
<br>
Adjustable parallels for set up.<br>
<br>
> electric planer<br>
<br>
Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, there's
so<br>
little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard sounds
to<br>
invite disaster.<br>
Clark </font></blockquote><br>
What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it leaves
at the end of the plastic.<br>
A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough material
for the new keytop<br>
to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<font size=3>Jon Page, piano technician<br>
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.<br>
<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:</a>jonpage2001<a href="mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net" eudora="autourl">@mediaone.net</a><br>
<a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a><br>
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