<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>David,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>    Ivory curling as you = described sounds like a clamping problem to me. If one wets ivory with water, or = glues containing water it will curl if not quickly clamped properly. Clamping = a head back on a keystick should have a means to clamp the head down flat = and to push the head back to mate with the tail. The proper glue to use, in my = opinion, depends on the setting in which the repair is made. Other factors = such as tradition, opinion, what is the latest-and-greatest, and = cost come into play.  I'm not a road warrior, so all of my key = restoration is done in the shop under controlled conditions. My initial approach to = gluing on keytops  was to go back to the basics. What am I gluing, =  wood, ivory, bone or plastic? What am I gluing it to? What kind of joint am I making, = edge, face or end? What are the clamping and surface preparations needed. Each = of these scenarios will have different requirements. Gluing a keytop on to = a keystick is face-gluing, gluing on a front is end-gluing, and gluing on = to, or building up the sides of keysticks is edge-gluing. Choose your glues = wisely, the glues that one would use on the road may not have the best properties or = be the best to use in a controlled environment. While most glues or = adhesives natural or synthetic will "glue" most things together, there are = favorable and unfavorable qualities to each.   Mike</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=ilvey@sbcglobal.net = href="mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net">David Ilvedson</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, April 14, 2005 = 11:06 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Gluing Ivory = w/PVC-E...was Contact Cement, yada yada</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV>"starved joint" possible on plastic applications also, = I suppose?   <BR><BR>David I.<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR> <DIV style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 3px solid; PADDING-TOP: 5px"> <HR> Original message<BR>From: Joe Garrett = <JOEGARRETT@EARTHLINK.NET><BR>To: pianotech <PIANOTECH@PTG.ORG><BR>Received: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 23:39:09 -0700<BR>Subject: Gluing Ivory w/PVC-E...was Contact Cement, yada = yada<BR><BR> <DIV align=left><FONT face=Arial size=2>David Vanderhoofven = asked: "<FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Could you enlighten me as to the = details involved in gluing ivory pieces on <BR>with PVC-E glue?  I had a = bad experience recently with ivory and <BR>PVC-E.  The ivory curled = up very badly.  I am assuming that the moisture in <BR>the glue caused = the ivory to warp.  How do you keep the ivory from warping <BR>when using = PVC-E glue?  Thanks!"<BR><BR>David,</FONT></FONT></DIV> <DIV>First, I do not thin the stuff. As a matter of fact, I let it get = thicker.<G> I add titanium dioxide to the stuff until it's = really thick.<G> I use special clamping plates made out of 1/4" thick = aluminum. The brass ones, sold by our illustrious suppliers, suck! I use those = in the field, but have mixed success. BTW, only LIGHT clamping pressure is = needed. Too much pressure will definately cause a "starved joint".</DIV> <DIV>Regards,</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>