<HTML>In a message dated 7/15/2002 1:05:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time, davidlovepianos@earthlink.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:Re: Shellac vs. lacquer Date:7/15/2002 1:05:00 PM Pacific Daylight Time From:<A HREF="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</A> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> Sent from the Internet Susan</BLOCKQUOTE>    I have to confess that Davids influence has gotten me to use more lacquers/acetone solutions  again instead of Plexiglass which I used for quite a long time and still do if I don't want to harden as much. I've used exactly the format David outlined hear and it is very effective. However solution strength will vary depending of course on how stiff the hammer is initially.    I always juice up some mono chords first just to get a feel for what it will take as to solution strength.  Can't go wrong down there. Besides I like some real teeth/bite to the low bass sound. Its also a safe place for begginers to experiment.   I haven't tried shellac yet. Too many new things in the hoper right now. >>>>>>>>>>>Dale Erwin>>>>>>>>> <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> Susan: I think the problem with using hardeners on the crown of soft hammers without reinforcing the structure underneath is that you can end up with the thumbtack-in-the-marshmallow-sound.  When you play softly, the piano seems to have some power, but as you start to force it and compress the hammer down to the underlying structure the hammer just flattens out and you get nothing. The difficulty lies in reinforcing the hammer deep without allowing the stronger lacquer to creep to the surface.  I've gone to adding lacquer from the sides when I want to build up the overall firmness.  You can direct the lacquer deep underneath the strike point (where it is needed) without letting it creep up to the crown.  On a Steinway hammer, getting the lacquer under the crown is essential.  Reinforcing the from the shoulders has little or no effect if the lacquer doesn't creep under the strike point.  Several drops on each side of the hammer will penetrate without getting to the crown and you can control just how close to the crown you want it to go. Basically, the lower in the scale, the farther from the crown.  I also use two solutions for reinforcing switching to a slightly weaker solution as I get into the low tenor and bass. After you have built up the underlying structure of the hammer (which you test by playing loud when the lacquer is thoroughly dry), you can then address the attack with a weaker solution.  Adjustments in the reinforcing can be done again from the side if you find that the hammer is not quite firm enough without effecting the attack. David Love ----- Original Message ----- From: "Susan Kline" <sckline@attbi.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: July 15, 2002 11:42 AM Subject:</BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>