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<DIV>Hi Dale,</DIV>
<DIV> The tenor of your post indicates that you are working on =
grands. The
beauty of the shoeshine methods is that it will work on either without =
having to
change methods or tools used to get the same results. When I say shoe =
shine I am
referring to the motion of the rag used to shine shoes.</DIV>
<DIV>While the rag bends to conform to the different shapes of the shoe, =
it is
not able to reach down into divots in the area being worked on,</DIV>
<DIV>The emery cloth takes advantage of this fact as it shreds the felt =
off the
high parts of the hammer, first the sides and then the strike =
point.</DIV>
<DIV>Joe Goss RPT<BR>Mother Goose Tools<BR><A
href="mailto:imatunr@srvinet.com">imatunr@srvinet.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.mothergoosetools.com">www.mothergoosetools.com</A></DI=
V>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com
href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 06, =
2005 8:45
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Hammer sanding =
,machne</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 =
size=2>
<DIV>
<DIV> <FONT size=3><STRONG>Carl -- David
I.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3><STRONG> After using many forms of electric =
sanding
devices I don't see how I can take a un -shaped set of new hammers =
&
effeciently design a hammer shape with this tool. Perhaps =
that's
not what it's use is for. I currently use a small sand cat =
belt
sander & more recently a Makita hand held belt sander with a =
1 inch
wide by 18" belt. It's a bit awkward & dont' recommend it for =
anything but
gang filing when shaping new hammers held in a gang =
clampm
in a vise with plenty of clearance.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3> I do however use the makita on hung =
hammers
when trying to do huge amounts of shape redesign & felt =
removal but
I just do the rough work with the tools & finish with 80 thru 400 =
grit
paper. Short of that the foredom works bset for this particular job as =
one can
focus all the attention to shape on one side then the other & =
lastly the
top.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3> my guess is that Joe's tool is =
extremely
effective for the applications it was designed for such as upright =
actions....
Right Joe? Or splain it further to dense heads like me. Maybe I need
one</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3> Just my 2 =
cents.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT size=3> Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<P>Carl,</P>
<P>so it goes back and forth...how do you get a particular
shape? I'm think of a worn hammer where I want to bring =
the
shoulders down and not the top. How is that accomplished?</P>
<P>David I.</P>
<P>David, just push the sander fore and aft to sand only on side of =
the
hammer. Press down to sand the top. Rotate the sander =
and push
side to side to clear waste felt. You need to do this since if =
you
don't the felt will clog the paper and stop working. Fifty or =
sixty
grit is good for speedily removing felt. For smaller hammers I =
usually
squeeze the blades with thumb and index finger to sand only the =
sides.
<STRONG>Remember</STRONG> <STRONG>that this tool is</STRONG>
<STRONG>basically roughing it in. As Nick Gravagne said in a =
class
"We're just shoveling dirt". Final shaping and squaring is =
done using
standard paddles or your favorite procedure.</STRONG></P>
<P>Carl Meyer PTG assoc<BR>Santa Clara, =
Ca.<BR></P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
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