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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Thanks Ron. I seem to remember we went around on =
this one
last time. This one is a good 1/4-inch gap, and the last tooner =
supposedly
pulled it up to pitch, tooned it, and squirted a bead of silicone =
bathroom caulk
into the top of the crack to prevent further spreading (or maybe he =
squirted the silicone in the crack before pulling up to pitch - I wonder =
which
is the proper sequence?).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>In this case, I will lower pitch first, as with =
the gap
closed, the piano may go well above A440 (although I must admit I would =
do that
anyway just for comfort - but in this case I have reason to believe the =
piano
may have been at A440 after significant pinblock movement had occurred). =
I will
also use epoxy in the crack. Titebond requires a clean, well-mated =
surface and
good clamping pressure for a good bond. Whereas the mating surface in a =
case
like this will likely re-align, between the debris (silicone glue, drill =
shavings, whatever else crud) and the original glue between the pinblock =
back
and back assembly, I will simply rest much more comfortably at night if =
I use
epoxy. The couple times I have done this repair, it seemed impossible to =
get the
crack completely closed - all the more reason to consider use of an =
adhesive
designed for gap-filling. I do understand that the repair would likely =
be
successful with the through bolts alone - but overkill is my middle name =
- and I
think that, arguably, epoxy use in this case may not really be overkill. =
Also,
this is a relatively new piano - I would feel more comfortable with an =
adhesive
other than epoxy if the piano were a 1952 Winter spinet - this is a 15 =
year old
otherwise very good condition Baldwin console - the piano has the =
potential for
decades of good service.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>And yes epoxy use does take a bit more time and =
requires
two appointments. So the cost is more that a one-appointment repair. I =
have
little doubt a Titebond repair will work. But I think for some anyway, =
there is
a different comfort factor. There will always be significant unknowns =
regarding
the integrity of a repair such as this where the assembly is not being
completely disassembled, resurfaced and re-bonded.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Or, I could take the approach a dealer that =
I am
aware of takes on a several year old expensive vertical =
piano -
no clamps, no through-bolts, no Tightbond in crack, no epoxy - none =
of that
stuff - just rout out a little groove along the jagged crack and shim in =
a
shallow piece of maple, plane down to original height, touch-up finish =
and
waaaallllla - problem solved (oh, and stack heavy objects on lid of used =
"repaired" piano while it resides in the new piano sales
showroom, with the new piano price tag hanging from it, so that =
nobody is
tempted to open the lid)!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Anyway, just a few longwinded,
mostly constructive, thoughts on the subject.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>----- Original Message ----- </FONT>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From: "Ron Nossaman" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:RNossaman@cox.net"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>RNossaman@cox.net</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>To: "Pianotech" <</FONT><A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org"><FONT face=Arial
size=2>pianotech@ptg.org</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial =
size=2>></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:17
PM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Subject: Re: Pinblock Separation
Questions</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><BR><FONT size=2></FONT></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=Arial
size=2>> <BR>> >Also, any non-bionic technician willing to =
share how
many hours they have <BR>> >taken to do a repair like this - start =
to
finish, not including pitch <BR>> >adjustments and tuning (just =
clamping,
drilling, bonding, bolting and cleanup)?<BR>> ><BR>>
>Thanks.<BR>> <BR>> I'm old and fat, so I assume I qualify as
non-bionic. I take off the lid <BR>> and put a couple of monster =
clamps
across the top of the back, drawing the <BR>> gap in a bit. If I can =
close
the gap, the clamps will hold it while I take <BR>> out plate screws, =
drill
through holes (3/8"), and install carriage bolts <BR>> from the back. =
I use
washers that will fit around the square shank at the <BR>> head of =
the bolt
to get a bigger footprint than the head provides. You can <BR>> sink =
a 3/8
carriage bolt pretty deep into a piece of poplar otherwise. <BR>> =
After the
holes are drilled and I have bolts in place and have vacuumed up, =
<BR>> I
loosen the clamps enough to pour Titebond into the crack, helping it as =
<BR>>
necessary with a thin steel spatula purchased for just this sort of =
thing.
<BR>> Glue in, I crank the nuts (lock washer underneath) tight and =
use the
bolts <BR>> to pull the crack(s) together. Trim the bolts with a =
hacksaw, mop
up the <BR>> glue, pack up the tools, take them to truck, bring back =
my
tuning case, put <BR>> the lid back on, pitch adjust and tune the =
piano. I
haven't lowered the <BR>> pitch to bolt the back, so the thing is =
often not
far off, and I don't have <BR>> coils and such to mess with.<BR>> =
<BR>>
Takes somewhere between an hour and an hour an a half for the repair, =
plus
<BR>> whatever the tuning takes, and I'm done in one trip in usually =
around
2.5-3 <BR>> hours total.<BR>> <BR>> No failures yet, that I =
know
of.<BR>> <BR>> Ron N<BR>> <BR>>
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