<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT COLOR="#000040" SIZE=2 FAMILY=
="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0">In a message dated 8/28/2003 =
2:00:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, bases-loaded@juno.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000"=
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="A=
rial" LANG="0">Subj: <B>Re: shellac under varnish </B><BR>
Date: 8/28/2003 2:00:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time<BR>
From: <A HREF="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</A></F=
ONT><FONT COLOR="#000040" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FA=
MILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></FONT>=
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To: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A></FONT><FONT =
COLOR="#000040" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SA=
NSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
<I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR>
David<BR>
I have typically used shellac for a sealer coat on new boards o=
n the top and bottom before the ribs and bridges get glued on. I like the se=
aling properties and it keeps dirt, glue & water from glue cleanup=
from impregnating the panel during ribbing. I always sand and then coat wit=
h nitro cell. products. No problems here as to adhesions. I use one good wet=
coat of the bullseye in a can, ooooohh I can hear the cringing from hear. I=
spray it on. I quit using varnish over shellac after I lost several finish =
jobs to the crinkles& varnish is tooo slow to cure for my schedule. What=
can I say I'm varnish impaired. Love the smell though.</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT><=
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</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000040" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3=
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</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000040" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3=
FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman" LANG="0"> &nbs=
p; Dale</FONT><FONT C=
OLOR="#000040" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANS=
SERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR>
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<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR>
Hi David -<BR>
<BR>
Shellac is actually an excellent choice for a sealer coat under<BR>
"traditional" varnishes, but under the more modern Polyurethane<BR>
varnishes, which seem to comprise the majority of the product lines these<BR=
>
days, only dewaxed shellac will allow for proper adhesion between the<BR>
shellac and poly. Polyurethane is very persnickety about what it adher=
es<BR>
to, to the point where it really doesn't even adhere to itself that well<BR>
unless proper techniques are employed. And certainly, the natural wax<=
BR>
content found in conventional shellac products would prevent the poly<BR>
from achieving good adhesion. That's my take on it, anyway.... W=
ith<BR>
dewaxed shellac, you are safe with any finish I can think of.<BR>
<BR>
Mark Potter<BR>
bases-loaded@juno.com<BR>
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