<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> <DIV><EM>Steve Grattan wrote:</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>First, I fit the block using traditional methods until it is = close then I cover the pinfield and flange with PREMIUM QUALITY SARAN WRAP - taping = as needed to areas that will not be covered</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM>with the epoxy mix.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Or use any one of a number of good release agents. = Car wax works well.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>I have been using West system 105/205 and the microlight filler = for years. </EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>#410 Microlight is a fairing filler. It has little = compression strength. It's main feature is that is spreads smoothly and is easy to = sand - hence a great fairing filler. I highly suggest using #404 High Density = Filler. This is their highest strength filler. If you don't goober too much on, = you won't need to sand it, so using it is hassle-free.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM> I mix the epoxy up <BR>according to the instructionsand = add the microlight filler until it is a little thinner than peanut butter (creamy!!).  Spread the mixture on the narrow edge of the = block and put in place.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Only used enough to fill any gaps. If you don't = goober too much on, it won't spread under the plate web. I highly recommend using = the West System Two-Step Bonding Method to ensure the epoxy never comes loose.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>  Clamp it to be sure it stays where you want it to be and = leave it sit overnight.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>The plate should be set in it's final resting = position when the epoxy is curing - screwed to the pinblock and bolted to the rim - = shouldn't need clamps.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>  Wipe off any gross amounts of squeeze out.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Indeed. But there shouldn't be much because we don't = use much!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>The next day - remove the clamps and teh block come right = off.  The Saran Wrap will peel off effortlessly.  Any epoxy that worked = around to the pinfield can easily be sanded off.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Ed Foote had a good comment - there shouldn't be = room for epoxy to creep under the plate web. Only a minimal amount needs to be = applied to the plate flange - just enough to perfect the fit - very little indeed.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><EM>Works great and gives a perfect full fit every time.  By = the way - the crush strength of the West System epoxy is FAR beyond = what stresses the pinblock withstands and it will go nowhere.</EM></DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Yes, the compression strength of unthickened epoxy = is pretty high, but when mixed with #410 Microlight fairing filler to a = near-peanut-butter consistency, it becomes something like styrofoam (you can dent it easily = with a finger nail)- definitely not the thing to be using in this application.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Terry = Farrell</FONT></FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>