<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; = FONT-FAMILY: Arial" bottomMargin=7 bgColor=#ffffff leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 = rightMargin=7> <DIV><FONT size=3>Not contrary at all! Which is why I said</FONT> = <FONT size=3>"...the thick epoxy might work just fine...", and = apparently did work just fine, and pointed out to "...be sure to moosh the epoxy = into the wood a bit..." which, of course you did!  ;-) </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Also, for very small quantities of West System type = epoxy use, I save the plastic cleaned used yogurt cups and use my gram scale = to measure out the resin and hardener - works real easy and accurately.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = title=pianotech@ptg.org href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 12, 2004 = 10:39 AM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Lock tite- wood = epoxy</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 = size=2> <DIV> <DIV>    <FONT size=3>Dear Contrarian = Brother</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  I was merely suggesting a  type of = epoxy for a very small job so that I don't waste the west sytems stuff for 4 dabs = of epoxy. Also by inserting the screws in this repair aformentioned it = squishes it into the wood. If I have a failure I'll be the first to tattle on = myself. Thes screws can be tihgtend further after complete dryin as well so = I'm very pleased with the repair</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>  However your point is well taken & when = I need epoxy advice You da man Terry</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>   Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px = solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 = size=2> <DIV><FONT size=3>At the risk of sounding like I am of the opinion = that there is only one type of epoxy worthy of use on this planet, I = offer the following for your consideration.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>From my experience, the source of failure with = epoxies in general, when they occur, is between the epoxy and the = substrate being bonded - in a repair like a rim, it would be the epoxy-to-wood = joint that can be of concern. An epoxy bond is a mechanical bond: the = epoxy must penetrate the wood sufficiently so that after it hardens it will not = work loose. You've all heard/seen/experienced an auto-body repair with = "Bondo" that separates from the metal after some time. This is because a = proper mechanical bond was not made between the Bondo (yes, I know, Bondo = is a polyurethane-based product - but the analogy works) and the = metal substrate. The same can happen with the epoxy-to-wood joint.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>A thick, putty-like epoxy, simply does not = penetrate a wooden surface well on its own.</FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>Now in a low-stress joint like filling a divot = in a piece of wood, the thick epoxy might work just fine. But be sure to moosh = the epoxy into the wood a bit to be sure it will interlock with the = surface fibers of the wood.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=3>In a high-stress joint, an epoxy like West = System with its various fillers really shines. The basic principal here is to = wet wood surfaces down with an unthickened epoxy - you can watch as the epoxy = soaks into the wood - if it soaks in fast, you may want to apply = unthickened epoxy again - with end grain you will want many applications of = unthickened epoxy until it doesn't take any more. Then you add your filler of choice = and thicken it to whatever consistency is appropriate for the = application and make your bond. Doing this "preparatory wetting of the surfaces" = will yield an epoxy bond that quite simply will never let go.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><BR><A title=http://www.farrellpiano.com/ href="http://www.farrellpiano.com/" target=_blank><IMG = id=MA1.1089643180 title=http://www.farrellpiano.com/ = alt=http://www.farrellpiano.com/ src="cid:010501c46827$48a9b030$b9b52341@youro0kwkw9jwc" border=0 = XHEIGHT="100" XWIDTH="100" DATASIZE="7001"></A> </DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV> <DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BODY></HTML>