<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 5.50.4134.100" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Alan, </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>Tapping the loop down or more than = that?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Verdana size=2>Tap the loop down.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Verdana size=2>Make sure the wire is straight from = the hitch pin to the bridge, across any duplex or bearing bar on the plate. I had a = Baldwin that the strings went 1/4" off to the side and back to the pin. They = will try and creep towards straight so you must put them where they are trying to = go. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>Kink on the string? What kink? Seat string to bridge = and pull up against capo? </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tap down below the capo about 1/4" on uprights.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The wire as it bends around the = termination points, has a large radius. When you tap, it bends nicely around the point. All = this is done with a brass rod, 3/16", about 4" long and a light hammer. Gently = tap the string in the direction that would make it tighten around the = termination points. Do this about 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the bridge pin or capo bar. On the bass string upper termination points. The wire will = move over almost a mm as soon as you tap it if this hasn't been done. Do not drive = the string into the bridge cap. Just pushing the string sideways quickly and = firmly will accomplish the same thing. It kinks the wire at that = point and the speaking length is straighter. <DIV><FONT size=4>Then straighten the coil. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>>>>>> Okay, lift and  tighten.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>AND/or,</FONT><FONT size=2> tap down. The wire = comes out of the becket. around the pin and should split the hole in half  on = the other side. This is the tightest the coil can be, perpendicular to the pin. A = Kawai I just did, the becket hole was on the other side of the first loop. The = notes were dropping 20 to 30 cents flat as I straightened them. </FONT><FONT size=4>What formula/percentage do you use to calculate the overpull?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=1>trial and error</FONT></DIV> <DIV>I like to bring a piano up to pitch instead of having it end up sharp.</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>Pull the action? How come? What is "the settling?"</FONT></DIV> <DIV>The tapping of the strings at the hitch pins and the bridge. In an = upright, the action is in the way. If you have only one or two notes to deal = with, Joe Goss's tool for string seating works well with the action in.</DIV> <DIV><FONT size=4>"Tighten" bass strings?</FONT></DIV> <DIV>Only if you think they need it, now's the time. Do they buzz, are = they lifeless? </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Did I cover it all? I tried. I never talk about the other tech and = what they should have done, blah, blah. I tell them what I'm going to do and = what the results should be for X amount of $. Like one tech found his own card in = the piano after explaining to the owner how this should have been done and = that by the incompetent previous tech.</DIV> <DIV>Ahh, the taste of shoe leather.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Keith R</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>