<html> <body> Richard, I've had a Samick Wurly, and for Samicks the problem is the pinning of the under-lever flanges.  Some of the wires needed improved bending to line up with the upper 'tray' .  Lubing with CLP was not adequate.  I did some reaming and some heating up with a soldering iron.  Both worked equally well for the period of time I owned it.  BTW the seizing up of the centers increased with usage.  Brand-new, there was no problem. The sostenuto system needed adjusting too, the tests mentioned are excellent. Good luck, Andrew Anderson At 12:51 PM 1/26/2006, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">In a message dated 1/26/2006 6:08:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, richard.ucci@att.net writes: <dl> <dd>Help me out here. New Wurly 5' grand. Several dampers in tenor section are getting hung up. When offending key is played without using sustain pedal -no problem. <dd>Depress pedal by itself and damper does not return to rest on strings. Sostenuto pedal is working correctly , can't determime if the tab is brushing against it or not,  have pulled damper out and lubed rail bushing, flanges do not seem to be slow. I can't recall if they are weighted . </dl>Richard,   Some diagnosis can be done without removing the action. Quick test: Depress damper pedal and release. Lightly push down on hung damper head. If it returns with a light snap or won't go down, the sostenuto tab is rising past the sostenuto rail, probably because the damper PEDAL stop (not just the upstop rail) is allowing the damper pedal to take the dampers too high. On Steinways, you can confirm by pulling action out 1/8 inch and trying again. Because the sostenuto is on the key action, the damper will now not hang.   If on the other hand it hangs when using the key, the damper upstop rail is probably too high, allowing the tab to blow by the rod.   If the damper does not snap, but goes down with steady resistance, you can then go after friction in the underlever flange, top flange, or bushing. First, play the note. Push the head lightly to left and right. If it moves one way, the bushing is PROBABLY free. You can develop a feel for how much it is sprung against the bushing. If it flunks or is inconclusive, THEN you can remove the action.   Lift the underlever with one finger. You can feel friction. With one finger of the other hand, press the wire gently left/right, right under the bushing. One way it will move with you, off the bushing. The other way it won't. If it moves opposite your push both ways, the bushing is probably too tight. If not, then you can remove the wire and check for top flange friction and mount flange friction. Last resort take out the underlever. It takes longer to describe than to do.   Good luck, Bob Davis    </blockquote></body> </html>