<HTML style="FONT-SIZE: x-small; FONT-FAMILY: MS Sans Serif"><HEAD><TITLE></TITLE> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content=text/html;charset=ISO-8859-1> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1400" name=GENERATOR></HEAD> <BODY text=#000000 bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV>After looking into both options, I think replacing the flange is by far much quicker than replacing the cord.  On these pianos (at least on this one) the flange is held in place by a butt plate which, when loosened, gives up the hammer assembly quite easily.  The method I found to be the best was to remove the rest rail (as previously suggested) and then remove every other assembly allowing them to dangle by the bridle strap (as also suggested).  Doing every other one prevented any spacing problems and made it easy to see if any traveling was necessary.  The time it takes to replace the flange is less than gluing even one side of the broken cord, not to mention the prep work.  No muss no fuss.  In this way, the job goes very quickly.  Even if one had to repin, I think replacing the flange is a faster  way to go.   </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> <DIV>David Love</DIV> <DIV><A href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</A></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></DIV> <DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>