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<DIV>Run it through a small drum sander. Several folks, including Ed =
Foote (as I
recall anyway), recommend that method. I haven't tried it yet, but I've =
got my
drum sander ready to go.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Terry Farrell</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>My only problem with leather is it doesn't come in =
different
thicknesses. How do you make the =
fit? <BR><BR>David
Ilvedson, RPT<BR>Pacifica, California<BR><BR>
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Original message<BR><BR><FONT id=role_document face=Arial =
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<DIV>
<DIV align=left> <FONT size=3>Ron & =
All</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> After following up on many of our high use =
rebuilds I
am extremely disappointed at the extreme wear factor on all the =
bushing cloths
we've tried. It's primarily the front rail pins. In one church, 2 =
years of med
heavy playing & many glissandos later the bushings are gone & =
keys as
sloopy as before </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> SO when I get done with this post I'm =
ordering the
Kangaroo stuff from Schaff. I see no other alternative.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I'm currently reworking a 1958 7 ft Petrof. =
Nice
piano. The center rail bushings are in perfect tolerance. The fronts =
were felt
& we changed those due to exessive slop.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> There may be a chance of corrosion on brass =
but right
now I'd take my chances with the leather even on the brass pins. Hey =
if they
last more than 2 years under heavy use then I'm even, if longer then =
I'm in
the black.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE cite="" type="cite"><FONT =
face=Verdana><STRONG>We've
considered leather bushings,</STRONG> but my understanding is that =
there
can be a chemical reaction between the leather and the Yamaha =
brass key
pins. I don't see that the supply houses offer plated/steel pins =
in the
Yamaha size.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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