<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1264" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: = #ffffff" bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Hello Dale,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>I use West System epoxy in quite a few = applications, but I must admit, not many where I am drilling repetitive holes through = a significant thickness of cured epoxy. However, I am aware of the = gumming potential that you speak of. My pinblocks that I make are epoxied = together with West System epoxy, but the "glue"/epoxy lines are relatively thin = so I don't experience gumming action. Are you applying unthickened epoxy = to the holes? I would highly recommend thickening up your mixture with #404 High-Density filler. From the West System web site:</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><EM><STRONG>404 High-Density Filler<BR></STRONG>404 High-Density = filler is a thickening additive developed for maximum physical properties in = hardware bonding where high-cyclic loads are anticipated. It can also be used for = filleting and gap filling where maximum strength is necessary.</EM> = </DIV> <DIV><EM></EM> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Generally speaking, with use of any of their = fillers, you will end up with less resin and hence less gumming action. However, = the thicker the mix is, the more difficult it will be to get epoxy into all = those little holes - but maybe running a squeegee up and down the bridge root = top a few times will work it in good enough - perhaps worth a try. Beyond that = comes Joe's idea of shoving a piece of hard wood into the hole after the hole = has been partially filled with thickened epoxy. I think that when most folks = take this approach, they are thinking "gluing wood = need tight fit". But = with epoxy, this is not the case - a loose fit is better. If you can find a source = for small hardwood dowels that will go into the holes without drilling, that would = save time. The reason for shoving small dowels into the holes is perhaps less = for filling the holes, although obviously it plays that role also, but = rather to simply drag the epoxy down into the hole. If you used dowel lengths = slightly less that the hole depth, the potential exists to still make all this a = one-step operation - you could epoxy bridge cap on at the same time. But then you = would be working with 500 or so itty-bitty little pieces of wood - hmmmm, = maybe not all that bright an idea.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Even more crazy ideas might include running a = small router bit down the bridge root top to route out a ditch that would go = through the bridge pin hole field. That would certainly make getting the = thickened epoxy in there nice and easy. You would definitely want to be sure though that = the thickened epoxy wouldn't gum up your hot drill bit because you'd be = hitting it in every new bridge pin hole.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Or, do like Andre does and just route the = root down to a point below the old bridge pin holes.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Do you have a web site Dale?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#800000>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>> Dale,<BR>> I usually use 1/8" maple dowel. It's easy to cut = with my shank nippers. of<BR>> course this gives you an extra step of = drilling with an 1/8" bit, so you<BR>> have a good fit for the dowel. Actually, it = doesn't take much time to do<BR>> this step, as you're not interested in = "accuracy", but just to size the<BR>> holes. I've had the same problem with = filling the voids with epoxy, in the<BR>> "pre-capping operation.<BR>> Best Regards,<BR>> Joe Garrett, RPT,</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; = BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>   List</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>    For years we have used = shoe pegs to fill the remaining portion of the bridge pin holes after the caps = are taken off in preparation for new caps. I had a good system using shoe pegs and the Bolduc wood glue to secure them. The glue = doesn't gum up in  the bit as does most other glues I've tried & = with this simple system I can usually drill a set of bridges painlessly in = about an hour or so.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>    The problem is that no = one in the shop enjoys pounding square pegs in round hole except my wife Trix = & she's often to busy stringing etc.......  Also the pegs are getting = hard to find in quantity. Any way I recently tried the West systems epoxy = treatment squeezing it into the holes. Relatively quick & painless except = for the guk/sticky factor.  Ater this I immediately glue on the caps also = with epoxy.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>  After it cured for about 5 days I = drilled for the new pin holes but the residual epoxy seems to powder up or = alternately stick to the bit. I find this characteristic unacceptable.  Then = every other hole or so I must run the bit thru some thin scrap spruce to = clean the bit the drill again & over & over etc. Tedious useless activity.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080>  I'd be interested in someone else's = technique who has more experience with epoxy in this application. I like the = idea of epoxies hardness and all that but I do a fair amount of bridge work = & can't handle the aggravation. What am I missing?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000080></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT lang=0 face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3 = PTSIZE="12" FAMILY="SERIF"><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2>  = Dale Erwin</FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>