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<DIV> <FONT size=3>Hey Joe I missed your method. Can you send it my
way?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>From the West System web site - <A
title=http://www.westsystem.com/
href="http://www.westsystem.com/">www.westsystem.com</A> :</FONT></DIV>
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<P><FONT face=Arial size=3><EM><STRONG>CAUTION!</STRONG> ...... N=
ever
heat mixed epoxy in a liquid state over 120°F
(49°C).</EM></FONT></P></FONT></DIV>
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<P><FONT face=Arial size=3><EM>There is a better solution (than use of=
solvents) to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture=
resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy=
with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and
penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavit=
ies
and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable
shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working lif=
e
and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When=
the
epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a mois=
ture
barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding
solvents to the epoxy.</EM></FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial>I pull the bridge pins, recondition the cap (plane &=
amp;
notch - why else are you restringing the piano?), and dap epoxy into pin
holes, dab pin in epoxy, insert pin. I don't have to heat and have had
excellent results.</FONT></P>
<P><FONT face=Arial>Terry Farrell</FONT></P></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></=
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