<html> I prefer to mix the bronze powder in a separate container with the lacquer then pour it through a filter cone. Then pour thinner through the cone.  Use a retarder to slow the drying process so the finish will flow out well and not be grainy or orange peel.  The clear topcoat should have a lot of thinner and retarder to really get a smooth finish. It takes longer to dry but worth the wait.  Don't rub out. For lettering, I use a black waterbased acrylic (PianoLac). Black lacquer is not forgiving in the event of a mistake. Jon Page At 05:57 AM 3/20/2002 -0500, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>Hi Hazen -   Truthfully, I have never even measured how much bronze powder I mix into the lacquer.  Not very scientific, I know, but I just stir it into the gun cup till it looks right.  Start with a couple tablespoons in your quart cup of lacquer, see how gold it looks stirred up, and test spray on a white piece of paper.  I plan on two coats of gold anyway, so if there is a slight transluscence to the color, that is fine.  It is worth swirling your gun around quite often during application to keep the bronze from falling out of suspension.   I use water-based lacquers for all wood finishing, but still use the nitrocellulose lacquer for spraying plates.  I just go to my local Sherwin Williams store and use their "medium rubbed water-white lacquer" ( or something like that).  For plates, I prefer satin over gloss, because it is warmer and more forgiving to the eye when there are imperfections in the plate surface.  Although I rub out all finishes I apply to wood, and I like the woolwax you referred to, I would not recommend trying to rub down a gloss finish to satin applied to a piano plate.  There are WAY too many small crevices -- around lettering, hitch pins, agraffes, etc. -- that would be nearly impossible to rub out uniformly.  Unless you WANT a gloss finish, I would use satin, at least for the clear top coats, if you decide to go that route.  Ask your supplier if he has some flatting agent for his gloss lacquer (if he doesn't sell satin sheen already) or get his assistance acquiring some.  You can add this to your gloss lacquer to get any degree of flatting of the sheen you like.  DO follow the directions very carefully, and mix very thoroughly.   Mark Potter <a href="mailto:bases-loaded@juno.com">bases-loaded@juno.com</a>       On Tue, 19 Mar 2002 23:28:10 EST <a href="mailto:HazenBannister@cs.com">HazenBannister@cs.com</a> writes: <blockquote type=cite cite>Tommy,Mark,List,= I appreciate your replys,and yes I have a dedicated spray room,and= equipment,in my shop. What is the ratio,mix for the bronze powder.Also,where do you get your= paint,lacquer and other refinishing materials?I get mine from a company= called Carolina Refinishing,and would love to compare quality&prices= from someone else.Also,I have been getting a gloss lacquer(it's what he= has),and wool waxing to get a satin finish.Do you buy a satin laquer,or do= the same? Thanks again, Hazen Bannister  </blockquote></blockquote></html>