<html>
<font size=3>At 10:21 PM 08/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite cite>----- Original Message -----<br>
From: "Charles Neuman" <piano@charlesneuman.net><br>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org><br>
Sent: August 15, 2001 7:04 PM<br>
Subject: Re: Restoring old uprights<br>
<br>
<br>
> Let me see if I understand the method described by Newton and Del
below. I<br>
> understand it in two ways, and I think only one is right: 1) Do you
route<br>
> out large sections of the pin block and then fill those sections
with a<br>
> large piece of pinblock, cut to the right size? If so, how large are
the<br>
> sections (how many pins are in each section)?<br>
---------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Look behind Door #1.<br>
<br>
Most of the time we route out two sections, the bass section and all of
the<br>
tenor/treble section. Then cut and shape inserts to fit.<br>
<br>
Del</blockquote><br>
I have photos of an pin block inlay I did on a Bechstein a few years
ago.<br>
<br>
A table-mount drill press on the keybed with a Forstner bit removed most
of the stock<br>
and a chisel cleaned up the perimeter. I left about 1/8" of block on
the bottom. The inlays<br>
were carefully fitted for 'no play' and epoxied in with Epoxy Tech 301.
After that shrank,<br>
a thicker epoxy was added to the edges and repeated until full. The
flange had MarineTex<br>
epoxy applied and the plate fit in.<br>
<br>
A new pin pattern was laid out on tracing paper and transferred to the
block. I drilled the holes<br>
before installing the inlays. I did not drill all the way through the
block in order to prevent the <br>
epoxy from filling the holes from the bottom.<br>
<br>
While I had the thin epoxy working, I reglued the square'd corners of the
case at the bass <br>
and treble.<br>
<br>
Five years prior another "rebuilder" had plugged the block.
Unfortunately he did not tend to the splits<br>
between the holes and the plugs caused the cracks to expand...<br>
<br>
The sound board had large areas loose from the ribs which the customer
didn't have the money <br>
to replace. I devised the Sound Board Press which employs wooden
I-beams clamped to the rim<br>
with pipe clamps and spring-loaded plungers to apply pressure for
reglueing the ribs, the board<br>
was supported from the bottom; jpg's available.<br>
<br>
A fun project.<br>
</font><br>
<font size=3>Jon Page, piano technician<br>
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.<br>
<a href="mailto:jon.page@verizon.net" eudora="autourl">mailto:jon.page@</a>verizon<a href="mailto:jon.page@verizon.net" eudora="autourl">.net</a><br>
<a href="http://www.stanwoodpiano.com/" eudora="autourl">http://www.stanwoodpiano.com</a><br>
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