<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1 = http-equiv=Content-Type> <META content="MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: = 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: = black"><B>From:</B> <A href="mailto:btrout@desupernet.net" = title=btrout@desupernet.net>Brian Trout</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A = href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org" title=pianotech@ptg.org>pianotech@ptg.org</A> </DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, August 05, 1999 = 7:14 PM</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Old Knabe = Pinblocks</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Hi All,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>I have a job in the shop waiting = for me right now.  It's a Knabe grand, 7'4" I think, late 1800's, with a full plate.  The pinblock is sloped, and also curves from bass to treble.  If you've seen one, you know what I'm talking about.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>The pinblock is to be = replaced.  I guess what I need is some advice as to how to attack the beast.  I want = to do it right.  The main problem I seem to run into is that to remove = the pinblock completely, it's almost impossible without tearing off the = top front parts of the case.  (The pinblocks I've seen like this one were = screwed in before the case assembly was finished, and not intended to be removed.)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Have any of you come up with a = better way to do a pinblock replacement on these?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT = size=2>----------------------------------------------------------------= -------------</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Brian, et. al.,</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>This has been an interesting series of posts to follow.  Having done a couple of these in the past, perhaps I = might be allowed to comment....</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>First, these things look far more intimidating = than they actually are.  What you are faced with is simply a task that will = require somewhat more, and more demanding, woodworking that is usually called for.  Believe me, though, if I can pull one of these things off, = most anyone else out there can as well.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I have not tried filling the holes with epoxy and re-drilling.  It might work, though.  Epoxy, by itself, does = exhibit a fair amount of creep under load, but in this case it is just being = used to reinforce the wood fiber surrounding the pin.  Basically what you = would end up with a fiber-reinforced plastic pinblock.  Which may or = may not be a good thing.  I'm not really qualified to evaluate the = idea.  But, far be it from me to stand in the way of progress. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I have, however, encountered pinblocks that = have been plugged and I have encountered pianos in which portions of the = pinblocks have been routed out and inserts installed.  Some have held up well, = others have abjectly failed within just a couple of years.  I have = encountered inserts that have pulled loose and pinblocks in which the plugs = weakened the structure -- no, the glue holding the plug in does not make the = structure as strong as it was before you drilled out all that wood -- sufficiently = that the blocks had actually broken.  So, for me, both of those options = would be out.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>My choices would come down to an epoxy repair of = some sort or, my preference, replacement of the original block.  Taking the = rim apart at the bass end -- you shouldn't have to get into the treble end = at all -- just isn't that difficult.  Neither is putting it all back = together and doing a bit of re-veneering.  Cutting the original block = loose from the stretcher is also not terribly difficult.  The only real = challenge is shaping the actual pinblock panel and fitting it to the plate.  = This can be done fairly quickly using a variety of power and hand tools.  = And, yes, we do cheat and do the final bedding to the plate using an = epoxy/wood flour matrix.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>I am currently updating my old class outline on = replacing these blocks.  I'll be happy to send you a copy -- once it is = completed -- if you're interested.</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>Del</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>