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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>Hi David,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>Replace the flanges on the first
unit.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>Save the flanges, and re-cord them at your
convenience, for the the next job.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial size=3>Regards,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">David Love</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 04, 2004 10:39
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Yamaha Flange Cord Repair:
Follow Up</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>After looking into both options, I think replacing the flange is by far
much quicker than replacing the cord. On these pianos (at least on this
one) the flange is held in place by a butt plate which, when loosened, gives
up the hammer assembly quite easily. The method I found to be the best
was to remove the rest rail (as previously suggested) and then remove every
other assembly allowing them to dangle by the bridle strap (as also
suggested). Doing every other one prevented any spacing problems and
made it easy to see if any traveling was necessary. The time it
takes to replace the flange is less than gluing even one side of the broken
cord, not to mention the prep work. No muss no fuss. In this way,
the job goes very quickly. Even if one had to repin, I think replacing
the flange is a faster way to go. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>David Love</DIV>
<DIV><A
href="mailto:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net">davidlovepianos@earthlink.net</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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