<HTML>Clyde,         In my experience at school, there= was a similar problem in a studio upright in one of the rooms at school. Th= ere were no punchings that could be removed except the the cloth ones from u= nder the balance rail. Our teacher suggested that the key itself may have sw= elled from moisture and never shrunk back and the whole key lever may be a s= light bit bigger (hence sit higher on the balance rail than originally made = to).         We took about a 150 sandpaper and= sanded off a slight bit to bring the key back down. It worked. But we only = sanded a few thousandths. When one sands, the bottom of a key, it must be sa= nded a bit, put back tested then removed, sanded a bit more, checked again a= nd one has to keep repeating the process until the desired height is achived= (Just a possiblity) Does this make sense? Julie Reading           In a message dated 11/6/03 6:33:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, cedel@supernet.= com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT= : 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Friends, While tuning a 1980 Wurlitzer studio piano today I noticed some of the bass hammers would damp the strings depending on how they were played. Letoff was fine, but there was too much keydip, resulting in the backchecks pushing the hammers into the strings after letoff. It appears to me that all other specs will be in the correct range if the keydip is reduced.  Can this be done by shimming up the front rail<= BR> of the key frame, if there are no shims to remove from under the balance rail?  I've never tried this.  I could put card punchings under al= l the front felt punchings, I know.  Advice? Regards, Clyde </BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>