<html> At 06:15 PM 6/14/02 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>    Roger, Thanks. I like the idea of drawing the line, that would give you an exact reference point and can always be taken off with a stroke or two of sandpaper. </blockquote> <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>    What I'm curious about is, are you talking about setting each section separately?</blockquote> Hi Kevin,                   All two frequently the tray bows down  from either side of the pitman. So setting the timing with the hammers is accurate to the touch component.  You then have to shim the tray felt to even out the pedal timing if there is a bow.  This gets back to what I have been preaching about sequence. Hope this clarifies the point.    Other than that, I don't see your methods really differing from mine very much. Someone suggested replacing the key end felt, and of course you should do that on pianos that have seen some wear. I am not slow in recommending changing both tray and key end felt, so that I am in the ball park to start with. The job always seems a fudge with worn felt,  remember the timing also changes with the unicorda pedal with worn key end felt. <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>    Speaking of Baldwin; you're a dealer, why don't they ever even think about "damper timing"? In fact, I learned how to do a real good job- real quick, just because of them. God Bless 'em for that. </blockquote> We are working on improvements in that area. regards Roger </html>