<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff background=""> <DIV><FONT size=2>Still haven't gotten over that Stanwood thing, eh Richard.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT size=2>David Love</FONT></DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV><BR><FONT size=2>----- Original Message ----- <BR>From: Richard = Brekne <BR>To: Pianotech <BR>Sent: November 07, 2002 10:52 AM<BR>Subject: Re: = removing ebony sharps<BR><BR><BR>David Love wrote: <BR>What's the method of = choice for removing ebony from the key.  Whereas I have generally used a = chisel for taking off plastic sharps, the additional surface area of ebony sharps = may produce some wood loss, which I would like to avoid.  It seems like = maybe a band saw for the bulk of it followed by a sharp chisel might be the way = to go.  Any suggestions. David Love<BR><BR>I use Elbezenoid = Cortisanate mixed with two freshly plucked feathers from a Hondurian Phlet puppin and a = little goose oil. Mix gently over a light open air stove, adding the = Cortisanate carefully and only a little bit at a time do to its explosive nature. = Let cool and place in an double open ended jar, chilly and dry for storage. = <BR>To use simply place a teaspoon on a 1X6X12 board with  as many black keys = as you can comfortably space on the board. Cover with an aquarium or some such = type semi air tight box and wait  6 to 7 weeks. They will fall off by themselves.... along with the bushing felt, and any damper lift felt = that may be present. Be advised, Brass captans tend to turn purple, but the polish = nicely afterwards. <BR>  <BR>-- <BR>Richard Brekne <BR>RPT, N.P.T.F. = <BR>UiB, Bergen, Norway <BR>mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no <BR>http://home.broadpark.no/~rbrekne/ricmain.html <BR>  </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>