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Yes indeed. The last dealer supplied tech ruined the bridge capping
on your piano. I'm going to have to replace it for xxxx.xx
dollars. Might need someone at least 150 miles away to supply a
concurring expert opinion. ;-)<br><br>
How about epoxy fixes? Use a little electrical tape dam and
fill level, sand, reposition string & tune. Anyone tried
that?<br><br>
Andrew Anderson<br><br>
At 03:57 PM 11/6/2005, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite=""><font size=2><i>Does anyone have
favorite methods to fix crushed bridge capping?<br>
</i></font> <br>
<img src="cid:6.2.3.4.0.20051106165220.04081cb8@pop.sbcglobal.yahoo.com.1" width=454 height=341 alt="[]">
<br>
<br>
<font size=2>Recap with quarter-sawn epoxy-laminated hard maple capping
material.<br>
</font> <br>
<font size=2>Terry Farrell<br>
<a href="http://www.farrellpiano.com">www.farrellpiano.com</a><br>
<a href="http://farrellpiano.com/bridge.htm" eudora="autourl">
http://farrellpiano.com/bridge.htm</a><br>
</font> <br>
<br>
<font size=2>----- Original Message ----- </font><br>
<br>
<font size=2>>I have a Steinway D in my client inventory that I've
just finished a <br>
> third tuning service+ on. It was some fourty cents low when I
first <br>
> encountered it. The client wants this piano to be kept in
premium <br>
> condition from now on for his performance venue.<br>
> <br>
> No note was more than three cents (A4) out when I measured it this
<br>
> time so it is settling down, somewhat. I decided to do a
little <br>
> maintenance on the piano/string voicing side. This involved
<br>
> tightening loops at the hitch-pins, straightening the path from the
<br>
> hitch-pin to the bridge pin (surprising how many clicked over into
<br>
> place), seating from front to back on the rear duplex, light seating
<br>
> at the back of the bridge, seating via use of a beat-suppressor on
<br>
> the front side (no tapping). The pitch dropped, as expected,
from <br>
> three to sixteen cents. I then did an over-pull <br>
> pitch-correction. This is followed by seating the wire at the
front <br>
> duplex, then lifting in front of the capo and then on the back-side
<br>
> of the capo.<br>
> <br>
> After this I fine tuned the instrument. String noise was
greatly <br>
> reduced but still persisted in the mid treble on some strings.
I <br>
> tried holding something heavy against the front and back bridge pins
<br>
> and the beating/noise was reduced but not eliminated. I tried
<br>
> driving the bridge pins a little. There was some
improvement. (BTW, <br>
> why does Steinway have to grind those pins flat? It makes it
hard to <br>
> drive them without risking putting more torque off the driving axis
<br>
> stressing the hole.)<br>
> <br>
> So, I want to list all possible culprits for future
investigation.<br>
> Previous over aggressive string-seating. (some areas look like
the <br>
> string was crushed down into the bridge)<br>
> Loose bridge pins<br>
> Kink in wire at front bridge pin pulled into speaking length (should
<br>
> stretch out between tuning intervals?)<br>
> Poorly shaped or too-soft & cut-up capo d'astro bar<br>
> Scaling interference noise (choice of speaking length, node
etc.)<br>
> Sympathetic beats from undamped duplexes elsewhere in the piano<br>
> Mis-shaped hammers<br>
> <br>
> Did I miss anything? How do you distinguish between the
various <br>
> sources? What are your favorite solutions?<br>
> <br>
> Does anyone have favorite methods to fix crushed bridge
capping? I <br>
> used CA on bridge pins that had cracks on either side of them on a
DH <br>
> Baldwin. I think it kind of worked to fill in some surfaces
under <br>
> the strings too. Did this about a year ago, still going fine,
and going...?<br>
> <br>
> How about loose bridge pins? Is it preferable to go up a
size? Or <br>
> is it better to inject epoxy and re-insert? I've used ultra
thin CA <br>
> glue on an older DH Baldwin grand that had grain parallel to the
<br>
> bridge pin torque and there were cracks on either side. It
worked <br>
> fairly well. I'm monitoring for long term results.<br>
> <br>
> Kink in the wire? I stretched everything with a beat
suppressor. I <br>
> can't think of anything but time here.<br>
> <br>
> Capo problems? Excess paint and filler here can make
noise. Filing <br>
> that off helps. Poor shape, grooving, a dremel with a long
stone <br>
> bit works fairly well. More ideas, cautions?<br>
> <br>
> Scaling problems? Hammer shape/position might help.
Pitch-Lock <br>
> clamps may reduce the noise.<br>
> <br>
> Sympathetic beats in the duplexes? Long "bean-bags"
such as Spurlock <br>
> uses for damper work might help to eliminate this while
tuning. I'm <br>
> guessing the Steinway duplexes don't slide around to permit
tuning.<br>
> <br>
> Poorly mated hammers? Check and re-shape. Joe's hammer
shaping tool <br>
> is cool! I used it on a Wurlitzer studio piano that needed
<br>
> help. It was fast reshaping the hammers and fast to mate them
to <br>
> the strings. Amazing what that did to the sound.<br>
> <br>
> Other ideas, observations, cautions etc. WELCOME ;-)<br>
> <br>
> Andrew Anderson<br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> pianotech list info:
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https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives</a></font><br>
<font size=2>></font> <br>
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