<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=iso-8859-1"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=#ffffff> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cy asked: "<FONT face="Times New = Roman" size=3>Joe,<BR><BR>What do you use in the field for a joint that needs = to come apart in =<BR>future, such as replacing a broken = hammershank?<BR><BR>--Cy Shuster--<BR>Bluefield, WV</FONT><BR></FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Cy,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I use Cold Hide Glue, (Franklin's). = However, there's a trick to getting it to set up fairly quickly: When I = anticipate the gluing on of a hammer shank and/or hammer, I request a coffee mug half = full of the hottest tap water, (approx. 110-120 degrees F). I carry a small = bottle of Cold Hide glue, that will fit into the coffee mug. While I am doing the = prep work, the glue is heating in the mug. By the time the prep work is done, = the glue is hot...er..warm, I'd est. about 80-90 degrees. I've found that = this will get the glue to set up much faster, so that I feel confident that the = hammer won't go out of alignment, 10 minutes after I'm out the door! (Yikes! DAMHIK!!!<G>)</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If I am gluing a hammer shank, using a = straw splint, I use Titebond. (Now, I'll be using Titebond III). BTW, I don't = like the Titebond container/tip size/configuration, so I empty an Elmer's white = glue bottle, clean thoroughly and refill with Titebond. The reason being, = that many times I need a very small orfice, (pinpoint, if you will), to force the = glue into cracks. The Elmer's bottle will do that w/o = "collapsing!</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Best Regards,</DIV></FONT> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool Police<BR>Squares R I</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>