<HTML>In a message dated 12/23/01 8:12:47 AM Central Standard Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com (Farrell) writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">When a bass string breaks just above the winding end on a low-end/older piano (like within a half-inch or so), what do you do regarding the splice decision? New string? Unwrap some of the winding and splice? Clearly, better piano, more demanding client, gets new string. But what about the "just fix it for as little as possible" situation? </BLOCKQUOTE> This situation often means that the player plays very heavily, regardless of the kind of music.  A glance around may tell you what kind of music is played, if not, ask.  If it's classical, you'll see many books of advanced literature, mostly Romantic.  If the player plays Rock & Roll, Boogie Woogy, Jazz or Gospel, the damper pedal may also need maintenance.  These kind of players often use it as their "Bass Drum".  In a particular style of Jazz that comes from New Orleans, this is the norm. Once you have one string gone, there may easily be more.  One may break within a short period of time after you have made a repair or replacement.  You may easily be blamed for it and the customer will probably think it is the one you already repaired or replaced.  Indeed, the one *next* to the one that broke may be the next one to break because until the unison was restored, the single remaining string took all of the force. Take a look at the hammers, are there deep grooves?   If so, tell the customer that the reason for the breakage is metal fatigue that can be mitigated be filing the hammers.  I have a few situations in my clientele where this has come up recently. By asking about it on this List, there was an important point I remember, made by Newton Hunt.  That is, metal fatigue is *not* reversible.  So, once this process has begun, actions you may take such as filing the hammers will not cure the problem, the best they can do is cut down on the major factor which is causing the strings to break. As for the splicing, yes, you are correct in peeling off a bit of the winding to give you the space you need to make the splice.  There is a serendipitous side effect to doing this, however:  Peeling off some of the winding (let's say, 3/16") increases the inharmonicity of the string.  Tying a knot in the speaking length decreases it.  If you are lucky, the two will cancel each other out.  Otherwise, your spliced string will create an irresolvable tuning problem known as a "snarl".  The mismatched inharmonicity of the two strings makes tuning them as a unison practically impossible.  The worst problem also with so-called "Universal" String replacements is that the *Inharmonicity* will not match. Sometimes, you can just let the spliced string be there as a permanent repair.  If you do the splice well, you will take pride in your craftsmanship each time you see it there and witness that the unison is functioning normally.  If the piano is modern and under production, particularly if under warranty, you should order a new string and leave the splice as a temporary repair. By the way, I don't bother with Universal Strings for the reasons you cite.  I would admit that any in many cases, you could get a Universal String to work, but I don't consider that to always have a complete set available is worth the trouble.  I either splice or order a new replacement. If I want to order a replacement for a string I am replacing and the dimensions are not known, I measure the adjacent string carefully and supply the figures to the string winder.  In most cases, you'll have to insert an offset figure into measurements of an adjacent string:  the Hitchpin to start of winding will be different but the core diameter, outside diameter, and winding length will be identical.  Make measurements carefully! For these individual replacement strings, I always use Schaff piano supply because the company is nearby and because their product is always well made.  If I need a replacement made by measured dimensions, I just call them from my cellphone and ask for the String Winding Department.  If the piano scale design is well known and they have it on file, I can get a replacement within a day or two that ranges from satisfactory to perfect.  I can't recall a single time in more than 25 years that I was ever disappointed with a replacement string from them unless it was *my* error in ordering. Lastly, don't expect a spliced or replaced string to stay in tune.  Tune a spliced string 10 cents (a gentle beat aurally) sharp and explain that it will go flat of it's own accord.  It may settle to a point where it does not disturb the customer.  Either make an appointment to retune it in 2 weeks or tell the customer to call you after two weeks if it is still not satisfactory. For a replaced wound string, make sure you do all of the things that will release the unsettled points which will cause the string to go flat.  Pull it up to pitch and beyond by 25 cents (a rapid, sour sounding beat, aurally), tap the coil, squeeze the beckett, (close the gap), tap down the loop at the other end and at the bridge points (lightly, don't use heavy force that may damage the bridge), apply a few stretching techniques such as pressing on the string, making sure not damage or mar it, then tune the string up to +25 cents (or a rapid beat aurally). You can leave a mute to temporarily silence the sharpened string.  This is a particularly good idea if you will return in a short period of time.  Sometimes, you may have a customer who is aware enough to remove the mute after a short period of time and can call you if retuning the unison is necessary.  In a few cases, you'll have a customer who has a tuning hammer and a mute and can maintain that unison but is not capable of tuning the whole piano.  I encourage the customer, in that circumstance, to do whatever is possible.  (You know you'll be back when there is some work that is worthwhile). Regards, Bill Bremmer RPT Madison, Wisconsin <A HREF="http://www.billbremmer.com/">Click here: -=w w w . b i l l b r e m m e r . c o m =-</A> </HTML>