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<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>Never
used the mthod myself but I've seen notchning done with a sanding =
machine (small
band , called electric file)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>I
believe the chisel I use is a carver's chisel, it is convex on its twoo =
sides
the same amount .</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>For
the vertical side of the notch I use a large chisel modified to follow =
the
curve, a rap of this one first, and the rounded chisel shave the notch =
at the
speed I want, because the curved chisel allow to do very small shaves ar =
bigger
one depending of the angle it is driven.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>All
these perfecly cutting (with a water stone and japanese stones for =
finishing)
.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>I
believe you have Arkansas stones in the USA, or are they coming from =
another
place on earth ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>I like
the Japanese water stones but a truing block is necessary because they =
are
generally soft.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2>Isaac
O.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=954302209-08112002><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff =
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Message d'origine-----<BR><B>De :</B>
pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]<B>De la =
part
de</B> Erwinspiano@aol.com<BR><B>Envoyé :</B> vendredi 8 =
novembre 2002
05:30<BR><B>À :</B> mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com;
pianotech@ptg.org<BR><B>Objet :</B> Re: Bridge Notching Trouble-- =
Terry
Farrells question<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><FONT =
face=arial,helvetica><FONT lang=0
face="Times New Roman" size=2 FAMILY="SERIF">In a message dated =
11/4/2002
4:28:00 AM Pacific Standard Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
writes:<BR><BR></FONT><FONT lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: =
#ffffff"
face=Arial color=#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
TYPE="CITE">Subj:<B>Bridge Notching Trouble </B><BR>Date:11/4/2002 =
4:28:00
AM Pacific Standard Time<BR>From:<A
=
href="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A><BR>=
Reply-to:<A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR>To:<A
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR><I>Sent =
from the
Internet </I><BR><BR><BR> Terry
wrote<BR>I'll have some bridge notching coming up in a while. I have =
always
had some trouble in the past keeping the notched top edge sharp. By =
this I
mean I line the chisel up in the middle of the bridge pin holes, =
start my
downward stroke (I try to do a bit of a curve so that the top edge =
is a
large angle - not vertical, but more vertical than horizontal), but =
then
after going downward the first tiny bit (maybe one millimeter or =
so), I need
to angle the chisel more toward the horizontal. At that point I find =
my
chisel riding on the top bridge-pin-line edge that I just cut so =
nice and
cleanly. The riding motion tends to round off the nice top edge that =
you
want to be ever-so sharp. How not to do that? I can see that cutting =
a
straight angle would fix that problem, but I've always thought that =
the
steeper you can make the top edge, the better the termination =
(assuming you
don't undermine the bridge pin). I think Fazioli puts a vertical =
drop on
their bridges. Those pianos sound OK to ! =
!<BR>me.<BR>
</FONT><FONT lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" =
face=Arial
color=#000000 size=2 =
FAMILY="SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR></FONT><FONT
lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=Arial =
color=#000000 size=2
=
FAMILY="SANSSERIF"> &nbs=
p; Hey
Terry</FONT><FONT lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" =
face=Arial
color=#000000 size=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF"><BR></FONT><FONT =
lang=0
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=Arial color=#000000 =
size=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF">
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
TYPE="CITE"><BR> I thought about your question again =
today as I
was busily notching. Everybody has there own way of doing this and =
heres
mine. I noticed that if you look really closely at a side view of a =
really
nicely notched bridge there is a really nice scoop look moving =
down
and away from the pins starting at the point the where the strings =
are
bisected.<BR> II have found of course really sharp =
chisels
are required to carve these notches. I'm sure that's no =
mystery to
you. The key for me was two things. I use a Freud 1 inch chisel with =
the
back slightly rounded and I use it upside down for the final cut. I =
hog out
most of the wood from the notch with an offset Japanese dovetail =
chisel and
then on my last cut or two with the Freud I bisect the pin line and =
with a
smooth but quick motion push forward and down the back of handle at =
the same
time. I found that moving to slow is less accurate and successful =
but faster
requires the confidence to just go for it. Does that make sense?
</FONT><FONT lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" =
face=Arial
color=#000000 size=2 =
FAMILY="SANSSERIF"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR></FONT><FONT
lang=0 style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face="Times New Roman" =
color=#000000
size=2 FAMILY="SERIF"> </FONT><FONT =
lang=0
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face=Arial color=#000000 =
size=2
FAMILY="SANSSERIF"> If every thing is working well I can hold the =
bridge up at
eye level and see if our notched are imitating the
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
TYPE="CITE">same kind of beautiful swoop those guys did at the =
factory. The
tough thing for us is that we don't do this everyday like the good =
ole boys
did so we kind of have to mentally think it through each time. =
It used
to take me several hours to notch a bridge. I've got down to bout =
hour and
half. I find that if I can do one a month or so I stay sharper than =
if I've
had a 3 month hiatus. It's all about practice and frequency like the =
rest of
our business. Hope that
=
helps.<BR> &nb=
sp;
Dale Erwin</BLOCKQUOTE><BR></FONT><FONT lang=0
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" face="Times New Roman" =
color=#000000 size=2
FAMILY="SERIF"><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></FONT></BODY></HTML>