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Hi Patrick -<br>
I'll intersperse my comments. Today I'll use
<font color="#FFFFFF">white</font>, no that won't work, I'll use
<font color="#800000">maroon.<br><br>
</font>At 10:34 AM 6/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">On Jun 26, 2005, at 2:15 AM,
David Skolnik wrote:<br><br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Patrick -<br><br>
I would echo Joel's reply, at least the part about rolling the pin
between files, as I haven't used the Pianotek reamers.</blockquote><br>
I have done that in the past, and a roughened center pin (which is
essentially what the Mannino broaches are, though done more nicely than I
usually achieve by rolling center pins between files) certainly works
very well for felt bushings. It's just that I imagine a microscopic view
of the results to the teflon bushing, and doubt that the results equal or
exceed factory specs for the bearing surfaces.</blockquote><br>
<font color="#800000">Well Pat, I can only say you must have quite a
vivid imagination. I too would enjoy seeing a microscopic view of a
teflon bushing. Frankly, I would enjoy seeing microscopic views of
just about anything. On the other hand, I suspect the microscopic
condition is not as critical to the functioning of teflon bushings as you
might wish. As for "factory specs"...which factory would
that be? An imagination AND a sense of humor! Anyway,
it would be equally interesting to be able to observe the cutting process
of a reamer, especially the effects of a somewhat dulled reamer. I
suppose you could further refine the abraded surface of the center pin
using some files made from various grit sandpaper.<br><br>
</font><blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">ds<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Drill bits won't work, at least
in part because they are not accurate enough,</blockquote>pd<br>
I would expect to mic any bits that I used</blockquote><br>
<font color="#800000">Yes, but if you do locate bits that are indeed
accurate to .0005", how much less are you going to pay for
them? I don't know. But even aside from the next point,
below, remember you are "drilling" into a plastic material
wherein there will be some degree of deformation. The same pressure
that is necessary for the cutting edge to remove material will, to some
degree, be deforming the material. You would not be able to achieve
the same degree of tolerance as you would expect working with, say,
metal.<br><br>
</font>(ds)<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">and, I suspect, because their
main cutting edge is at the bottom, not the sides. </blockquote>(pd)<br>
Huh? Certainly not the way I envisioned drill bits functioning -- do
others agree with your evaluation of the way drill bits
cut?</blockquote><br>
<font color="#800000">I'd be curious to know as well. I have some
books on subject which I will try to peruse.<br><br>
</font>Stay cool -<br><br>
David Skolnik<br>
"I could be wrong"<br>
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