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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff size=2><SPAN =
class=968271605-22022005>I do
not do major sanding after the filler. First, I stain like it will =
be. Then, I give a thinned wash-coat of shellac, apply black paste =
wood
filler, remove it with a credit card or razor blade. Do only =
a
good scrub with burlap and very fine sanding just to get the =
dirt. I
like the look the orange shellac gives to fine wood. This should =
leave you
with a surface ready to finish. Yes ,you can spray lacquer over =
shellac if
you mist on the first couple of coats and dry it fast. If you lay =
down a
heavy coat everything crackles by the time it dries.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT =
face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Mark Potter
[mailto:bases-loaded76@sbcglobal.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, February =
21,
2005 6:21 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Pianotech<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: general =
finishing
question<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><B><I>Terry <terry@farrellpiano.com></I></B> wrote:
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Mark,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>If you stain before filling grain, =
when sanding
the dried grain filler, how do you avoid sanding through the shellac =
and/or
stain? I seem to be grain-fill/stain challanged! Are you using water =
based
grain filler?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Hi Terry - </STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>I have used both water-based filler and solvent-based =
filler,
and either way, sanding the stuff without sanding thru the color IS =
a
challenge that requires constant vigilance while sanding. I =
wish I had
a magic word or two to pass on to you, but I don't. As I =
mentioned in
an earlier post, sanding the filler in the exact same manner that =
you sanded
the bare wood is a necessary starting point.</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>When you don't use grain =
filler, how many
coats of top-coat do you find is required to get a level finish - or =
do you
live with the grain depressions in this approach?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Naturally all woods are not identical, but generally I =
would
say that mahogany sanded to 220, dyed and sealed with at least =
a 2lb
cut of shellac, will require app. 6 total applied coats of =
water-based
material to fill the grain. I just sprayed one last week where =
I
stopped at 5 total coats of water-based, and there is the
<EM>ever-so-slight</EM> amount of grain showing, a look I have =
warmed to of
late.</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Mark</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV><B><I>Greg Newell <<A
=
href="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">gnewell@ameritech.net</A>></I></=
B>
wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff =
2px solid">
<P>Mark,<BR>So during the finishing process is when you re-add =
the
missing <BR>filler and stain, right?<BR><BR>Greg Newell</P>
<P><STRONG>Hi Greg -</STRONG></P>
<P><STRONG>Yes. First I would use dyes to get the color I =
want,
then seal them with a wash coat of shellac. If I AM =
gonna use
filler that would be next, although oftentimes I don't use =
it.
Then, if necessary, a few very thin toning coats (tinted =
shellac,
usually) on miscellaneous pieces to even up the color ( and, =
BTW, this
does NOT have to make the finish look muddy, as you earlier =
suggested!),
then on with the coats of finish.</STRONG></P>
<P><STRONG>Mark Potter</STRONG><BR><BR><BR>At 06:06 AM =
2/18/2005, you
wrote:<BR>>Greg Newell
<GNEWELL@AMERITECH.NET>wrote:<BR>><BR>>When those of you =
who do,
refinish a piano do you remove the filler during<BR>>the =
stripping
process?<BR>><BR>>Hi Greg - It is not a "goal", per se, =
for me.
Whatever volunteers to <BR>>come out during the stripping =
process, as
well as the rinsing and <BR>>scrubbing with maroon =
scotchbrite or #1
steel wool, is the extent of my <BR>>endeavors in this =
regard. I then
sand with 150 - 220 and start the <BR>>finishing
process.<BR>><BR>>No brass brushes for =
me...<BR>><BR>>Mark
Potter<BR><BR>Greg Newell<BR>Greg's piano
Forti<BR>mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
=
<BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>pianotech =
list info:
=
https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives<BR></P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><=
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