<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; = charset=us-ascii"> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE>@page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in = 1.25in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: Arial } DIV.Section1 { page: Section1 } </STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY lang=EN-US vLink=purple link=blue> <DIV>Wow, that picture is great!</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>That's really nice.  Thanks to everyone for your = input.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Andrew Olson</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left>-----Original Message----- From: = pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf Of David V. Anderson Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:50 = AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: RE: Epoxy Soundboard Repair- = Coloring of Epoxy </DIV> <DIV class=Section1> My formula recently has = been the System Three epoxy colorant.  This is a stiff, opaque paste, = designed to work with epoxy resins.  Two cautions:  The color slows the hardening time considerably, renders the epoxy less brittle, and too = much will prevent it from hardening altogether. (at least on a non-geologic time = scale).  Also, the color tends to weaken bond strength and the = epoxy’s ability to flow and expel air.  I usually start with a batch of = clear epoxy to wet the crack and fill to the bottom.  I have used them = with West Systems resin and slow hardener, and I would assume they work = fine with System Three’s own products.   I have purchased the = paste in yellow, brown, and most importantly, white.  I believe they also = make red, which would probably be handy in tiny amounts to = “orange” up the mix.  Just adding the colors makes too deep a saturation long = before the desired level of opacity is reached, so start with white.  With a = semi-translucent white base, much less of the deeper colors are = needed.  Experiment with how much, but less is definitely better.  I = add the smallest amount of paste necessary to do the job.  A batch that = won’t cure would be a real disappointment, and I disclaim all responsibility = for such an outcome.   Even with the color, = this stuff will migrate.  I have come within an inch or so of the end of a = crack that diminished to zero width, and have had it wick to the very = end.  It does tend to trap air bubbles, so be careful mixing and actively = squeegee it in over its entire pot life.  Tapping the board at intervals = seems to help.   The photo shows an = unfinished board with two filled cracks.  As was mentioned earlier, check = color against a wet board for a closer match.  These did match quite = well when finished.   Like many others on the = list, I’m not trying to make cracks disappear, or pretend they never = happened.  But they should still be pretty to look at with all your plate work, shiny = pins, and that expensive decal.  If making them somewhat attractive = really weren’t an objective, we’d color them = blue!     David V. Anderson, RPT Waukesha, WI  </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>