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<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid"><FONT face=Arial></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040> =
More stuff to add to your list</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3><STRONG> &=
nbsp; I'm not sure where we left o=
ff but I think we were into taking out the old board. Glenn ,you posted abou=
t the way cool inflater things. Send me some ehh?. ANy way we'll assumne the=
board is now out.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Now the next few jobs are to keep the board and all it's pieces together for=
reference. The next step is to thoroughly clean the rim joint. I sharp chis=
el will remove the drift wood left on the rim by the board. Take care t=
o avoid digging into the rim. If you've drilled the dowells too deep then th=
ey need to be filled with something I use a, well ,...more dowell in t=
hose cases where the dowell driller went to far. Its wood & it's a=
n easy patch.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; We then use vinegar and water 50/50 and soak the rim=
joint then applyDamp/wet strips of terry cloth over this on the rim &=
amp; a hot iron is applied. Then as the glue loosens, use flat sc=
rapers and chisels to extricate the gooey sludge as you go. You may hav=
e to go round twice on this but a clean joint is critical. Use chisels and m=
ore soaking to get at the notches. A heat gun can also be used to fry the so=
ft glue & then easily scrape off the ash.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
When every thing is clean it's time to lay out you rib stock. On smaller pia=
nos I typically use tight grain sugar pine in the bottom end and white or si=
tka spruce along the belly rail. I've tried a variety of configurations. </F=
ONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; I'm not going to attempt to tell you how to dimension your=
ribs claiming I have some magic formula or superior method. I don't. =
But in general I'm making the ribs a bit narrower and a bit taller& crow=
ning them. I lay out the ribs across the top of the case and over the =
rib notch,then mark the rib on the under side next to the rim. I cut all the=
ribs to fit the case for length & then cut the width on the table saw s=
lightly wider than my final dimension. I then run them thru the planer to sm=
ooth up the sides & remove the saw marks. Way less sanding later.</FONT>=
</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> N=
ow it's time to cut the radius but it'll have to wait.. I was on jury duty 2=
days Its' time for R&R.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Please add comments ,additions & alterations</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Dale Erwin</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040> <FONT size=3><ST=
RONG>Michael, Ric Glenn</STRONG></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3></FONT>=
</STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3><STRONG>Well, M=
ichael, I don't know if you'd call it research. List you proposed =
on measuring things & observations are really probably already outlined =
in the journal & are just some of the measurements all soundboard instal=
lers use. </STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue =
2px solid">
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I.E. Measuring string heights, Plate height, bass & treble 88, mark the =
front corner of the plate & measure the distance fore & aft in mm to=
the case side. These locate the plate. Note any odd things about the bridge=
s. I.E. inadequate side bearings, strings not going straight to the hitch pi=
ns, funky notching angels you don't wish to duplicate. Measure down to the t=
op of the plate at the bosses. This allows you to set the height of you dowe=
ls later if you use them.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Measure the string scale. If funky after unstringing measure string lengths =
& crunch the no.s. Often note 88 is too short for decent tensions in the=
last section. You may want to move the bridge as on many older 1800s S&=
S grands.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Note the angle of the bridge top to the board. I don't often do this b=
ut every piece of info can be helpful.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; (Observation)Look at the thickness of the board thru the action cavity=
at the belly rail & see how it tapers. (Mental note)</FONT></STRONG></D=
IV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Observation) Any crown left any bearing left. Does the bearing string still =
touch the bridge now the strings are removed. is the bridge below the string=
plane?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Pull the plate. Pull the bridge pins. make a GOOD pattern noting hole side n=
otch cut. Use a bridge pin bit drilled straight down thru the bridge to loca=
te the mylar pattern. Place mylar (I use 10 mil) over bridge and tap no. 6 p=
in thru mylar. It make a cleaner hole than drilling thru it.</FONT></STRONG>=
</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I always measure at least first and last string lengths on the long bri=
dge & bass bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Very important: Bridge location markers.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; I do this 2 ways. I drill straight down. straight is very important th=
ru the top of the bridge at not 88 with a 3/16 bit and thru the board & =
into the belly rail. This will help locate the top of the bridge very precis=
ely. I also do the same in the tenor end, drilling into a beam if possible. =
I also take direct measurements with a metric ruler to the side of the case =
at each end of each bridge. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
I also measure the distance from the no. 88 bridge pin hole to the sid=
e of the case & stretcher. This eliminates the possibility of getting pa=
ttern located wrong. There are other ways. Rebuilders please chime in.=
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Drill out dowels remove treble cap screws. Now the fun part. It's time=
to knock the board out</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> &=
nbsp; Any body tired yet? More later. going to work</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
Later--Dale</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000040 size=3> =
</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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