<html><div style='background-color:'>Jeanne - - Yes pardon my typing.  The word is motorized.  Like a regular electric motor that you could attach a buffing wheel to.  Actually I think a dremel tool might work but you would probably need to slow it down.  A buffing wheel made out of chamois is better.  The website is terrible I agree.  You can request a catalog at <A href="mailto:ferreestools@aol.com">ferreestools@aol.com</A>. The have lots of good tools that are handy for piano tech types, Stock numbers for the chamois buffing wheels are BR5A for the 4" and BR5B for the 5" Key buff compound is R49.  The also sell an adaptaor to put on the end of your motor shaft to accept buffing wheels.  I used a motor out of an old washing machine, which I got for nothing at the local "washing machine graveyard" The key buff compound is finer even than jeweler's rouge.  I have used it to take chips out of crystal goblet edges.  Be sure and use different buffing wheels for different materials.  In other words don't use the same wheel on plastic keytops that you used on crystal or metal. Any other ?'s don't hesitate to e-mail Dick Day <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #a0c6e5 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <HR color=#a0c6e5 SIZE=1> From: "Jeannie Grassi" <jcgrassi@earthlink.net> To: "'Richard Day'" <pianotoone@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Scratched plastic keytops Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 08:52:57 -0700 <META content="Microsoft SafeHTML" name=Generator> <STYLE> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:'Times New Roman';} p {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:'Times New Roman';} span.EmailStyle18 {font-family:'Calisto MT';color:blue;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in;margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} </STYLE> <DIV class=Section1> Hi Dick, This sounds like a good tip for TT&T, but I need some clarification.  I assume “mototized” was just a typo for motorized, rather than some sort of Dremel Moto tool.  Correct?  Do you have a brand name for this buffing compound? I found the website a little difficult to navigate.  Do you know if this is any different from other metal buffing compounds?  What are its characteristics?  Thanks so much for filling in these details.  Jeannie     <DIV> Jeannie Grassi, RPT Assistant Editor, Piano Technicians Journal <A href="mailto:jcgrassi@earthlink.net">mailto:jcgrassi@earthlink.net</A></DIV>   <DIV> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR align=center width="100%" SIZE=3> </DIV> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Richard Day Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 7:37 AM To: pianotech@ptg.org Subject: Re: Scratched plastic keytops</DIV>   <DIV> <DIV> I have good luck just using a mototized cloth buffing wheel and something called "clarinet key buffing compound."  Available thru your local instrument repair shop or at ·  <A href="http://www.ferreestools.com/">www.ferreestools.com</A> ·  ·  Go slow to avoid melting the key. ·  ·  Dick Day ·  Marshall MI </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 3pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5pt 3pt; BORDER-LEFT: #a0c6e5 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"> <DIV class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; TEXT-ALIGN: center" align=center> <HR align=center width="100%" color=#a0c6e5 noShade SIZE=1> </DIV> From:  Phil Bondi <phil@philbondi.com> Reply-To:  Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> To:  Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> Subject:  Re: Scratched plastic keytops Date:  Fri, 28 Oct 2005 08:06:10 -0400 > > >Christopher Chapman wrote: > >> >>I am a fairly new tech and just serviced a customer's piano, who >>recently had the keytops replaced. The previous "tech" did a bad >>job with filing the keytops and left scratches on the top of the >>key. They are the one-piece white plastic keytops. Does anyone have >>any ideas how to remove the scratches? > >Christopher, > >Hopefully, the scratches aren't too deep. These can be removed, but >it takes a little elbow grease and some tools: > >You'll need different grades of sandpaper and a buffing wheel. I >like to start with 400grit and then go to 600, then 1200, sanding >north/south and make sure you are keeping a very straight line with >your technique. After you've gone through the last grade, then you >buff east/west. This method will remove most scratches, provided >they're not too deep. > >I'll be interested in looking for other methods of doing this. The >method I use is time consuming, and it's the only one I know that >works. > >-Phil Bondi(Fl) > > >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives</BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV> </BLOCKQUOTE></div></html>