<html>
<body>
I just uncrated a Lothar Schell (chinese made). There was a capstan
on the hammer flange rail that was thoroughly embedded in the
pin-block. I swear I could see it all, action & pin-block, ease
when I backed it off. Also watch out for misplaced bolts.
Sometimes the lyre bolts are longer then the leg bolts and engage the
key-frame when misplaced. DAMHIK<br><br>
As for Lothar Schell, better than I expected a Chinese piano to be.
Much better than the Samick Wurly my wife used to have. The factory
tuning was knarly. I had to do some key-easing. I noticed on
the swing test that I may have to loosen some hammer flange
centers. I'll give it a week or two to acclimate first. That
suggests I may have to inspect other centers as well. The action
felt a little heavy to me so I teflon lubed the knuckles and whippen
heals. I sprayed prolube on the capstans. They feel like they
need buffing. Afterwards my wife said it felt much more
responsive.<br><br>
They have composite jacks and repetition levers. All jacks were
nicely centered. The regulation was a lot better than on a clients
new Estonia. Still needs some refining. The tone &
sustain are surprising in a 5' Asian piano. Anyone know who makes
these hammers? There is green felt around the wooden cores up to
the low treble. They need a <i>little</i> voicing. All in all
a decent little piano that may need more action center prep than on
'finer' pianos. Shiny, affordable, decent-playing and sounding as
it is; I don't think it will gather much dust on the sales
floor.<br><br>
Andrew</body>
<br>
</html>