<html>  <head></head> <body>  <DIV></DIV> <P>Hi Terry, good stuff! I have the Stanwood Touchweight on my list of pursuits for this year.I'll be taking Wally Brooks' seminar on touchweight analysis at the MARC in April.</P> <P> </P> <P>Thanks again,</P> <P> </P> <P>Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano<BR></P> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message from "Terry" <terry@farrellpiano.com>: -------------- <BR><BR> <META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1491" name=GENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I don't know the Steinway M touchweight characteristics (they all have their own personality!), but sure, you can always make an action play "stiffer". Just add or remove some lead in the keys. First regulate friction - here's a great chance to have a nice amount of friction in your hammer shank flanges - and not have to consider increased friction here a problem at the end of the key. You would need to decide how much of an increase in touchweight you want in the form of downweight (DW), and how much in the form of inertia. If you decrease the front weight (FW) of the keys, the static DW of the keys will increase and thus feel stiffer when playing softly. If you add lead to both the front and rear of the key, you can increase inertia without increasing FW. If you add lead to the rear of the key, you will increase both DW and inertia. I think manipulation of FW to get your desired DW and inertia will be the key (pun intended) for you.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>This all assumes that action geometry is good, etc., etc.  Are you familiar with Stanwood Touchweight Design principles?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>While not being any sort of fabulous piano, if the piano is in <STRONG><U>excellent</U></STRONG> condition and looks real nice, the $3K is not overpriced - but perhaps at the very upper limit of reasonable (if it needs work, then subtract as appropriate). </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>FWIW: I helped my son's piano teacher buy a 1960s Knabe (Aeolian) baby grand that was in very good condition (excellent for its age - was a one-owner (little old lady)) - likely a similar piano - I think she paid about $1,200 for it - but she got a very good deal - the owner was dead and didn't drive a very hard bargain. The teacher then went and sold her 1920s worn-out, banged-up, but quite playable (for the non-demanding pianist) Aeolian microgrand for $1,600.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Terry Farrell</FONT></DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV>Hi Folks,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Got a call from a client looking to buy a 1966 K&C baby grand. Student takes lessons on a Steinway M and wants the K&C to play more like the Steinway. I'm thinking a little stiffer perhaps. Wants to know if this can be done / they are looking to spend $3k on this instrument (sounds overpriced to me).</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks in advance for the input.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE>  </body> </html>