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<DIV>This is slightly off topic here.But the Samick dampers sticking problem is not caused by humidity.It is caused by friction heating up a chemical in the felt that then causes the felt to expand and the flange to stick.The best cure is 50/50 alcohol and water treatment over night followed by re-pinning and reaming any sluggish flanges. Robin Olson RPT</DIV>
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<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR><BR>> Hi John, <BR>> Photographing the install takes lots of light considering that you want a <BR>> picture of black parts on black beams. In my case it is worse because I <BR>> just put an !*#%&~undercover under my wife's piano. I'm going to invest in <BR>> a lot of black tacks for my next undercover job. Has anyone tried drilling <BR>> ventilation holes between the board behind the damper tray and the <BR>> conditioned cavity between the beams? I've been very tempted while easing <BR>> damper flanges, Wurlitzer by Samick strikes again. <BR>> <BR>> I think the only reason to do an under the beams installation is when there <BR>> is not enough room between the beams to fit the humidifier. I figure to <BR>> keep about 3/8" between the baffle and the ribs of the soundboard. On some <BR>> pianos that is above the beams and on some that is between the beams. I <BR>> don't let the bars rest on the beams as that is a potential source of <BR>> buzzing. Cut them short if you need to. <BR>> <BR>> The electrical cords come folded and tied when you get them. Just pull out <BR>> enough to reach and then tighten the twist tie. I then put a wire clip <BR>> close to this coil and fasten to the side of a beam. Yes they say that <BR>> those can form something like resistance coils when you're welding but the <BR>> wattage is much lower, I don't think it's and issue with these cords. So <BR>> far I've run the cords over the beams. If anything looks too close (like <BR>> ribs) I re-route to avoid and use the clips to secure the wires from the <BR>> sides of the beams. <BR>> <BR>> Wouldn't unisons going out be more of a rendering issue? Perhaps not if it <BR>> was dry. You will enjoy the stability that comes when this system is kept <BR>> running. <BR>> <BR>> Good luck, <BR>> Andrew <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> At 08:17 PM 10/11/2004 -0400, you wrote: <BR>> >Hi, <BR>> > <BR>> >I did my first dampp-chaser installation on Sat. I noticed today that the <BR>> >piano's unisons were more off-tune compared to Sat. than they were on Sat. <BR>> >compared to when I tuned it 1-1/2 months ago. Looks like it's doing <BR>> >something :) <BR>> > <BR>> >In any case, I was a bit uncertain about something. The instructions said <BR>> >to do an under-the-beams installation if there wasn't enough clearance for <BR>> >the humidifier baffle. But it didn't say what enough clearance was, so I <BR>> >presumed this meant "if it doesn't fit". There is between 1/4"-1/8" <BR>> >clearance above the baffle. Is this enough? <BR>> > <BR>> >I was also curious if anyone was willing to post a picture of their <BR>> >techniques to hide the extra cords. <BR>> > <BR>> >Thanks. <BR>> > <BR>> >- John Silva, P.T. sans R <BR>> > <BR>> >_______________________________________________ <BR>> >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives <BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________ <BR>> pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>