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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Canton flannel buffs =
are
available from: Woodcraft 1-800-225-1153, Tool Crib 1-800-635-5140, =
Rockler
1-800-279-4441, Eagle America 1-800-872-2511, The Garrett Wade Tool Co.
1-800-221-2942 and many hardware stores. Be sure not to get a sewn =
wheel, get a
loose sewn (1 or 2 stitches) and a loose section (1 stitch at the =
arbor)
Spiral sewn and sisal buffs are much to aggressive for keys but good for =
rough
cutting metals. When ordering compound, get a buffing compound not a =
cutting
compound, and I've found that the closer the color to the object your =
buffing
the better. If your interested in knowing, I use 1hp Baldor buffing =
machines
@1750 rpm with 10 inch dia. wheels. Separate machines for plastic, =
ivory, ebony
and metals. Rake your wheels occasionally to keep them =
clean.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca =
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John
Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 =
1:16
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: buffing =
keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Thank you =
Michael.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Where are those Canton flannel buffers =
available
from?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
=
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>=
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net =
href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL
MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, 2005 =
1:50
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> buffing =
keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I have found =
buffing to be
more of an art than a science. When your buffing ivory and =
bone you are
doing two things, one is smoothing the surface and removing fine =
scratches,
the other is sealing the pores. When your buffing plastic you are =
smoothing
and removing fine scratches and not necessarily sealing it because =
plastic
is not porous. I have found that a sewn canton flannel buff =
followed
by an loose canton flannel buff works well for me. Take into
consideration that when you are buffing you are simply putting the =
icing on
the cake. What do I mean? Buffing is to shine and seal (in the case =
of ivory
and bone.) The surface preparation should already be done. Buffing =
removes
fine scratches well, and will leave a perfectly flat surface. If one =
relies
on buffing to remove deep pits and scratches, this is where problems =
arise.
The surface will not be perfectly flat, and heat will be generated. =
Heat
will crack and burn ivory and bone, heat will melt and deform =
plastic.
The trick is surface preparation, keep the key moving, and apply the =
proper
pressure. Compound or rouge plays a role also. Compound can contain
abrasives, you want to be sure that you are using a buffing compound =
and not
a cutting compound. A cutting compound will leave as many scratches =
and
lines in the top as you are trying to remove. I look at buffing keys =
as I
look at refinishing a piano case. Your surface preparation and =
repairs must
be done first, spraying lacquer on a piano sanded and left in 80 =
grit will
not be as smooth and look as good as a case sanded to 600 grit, =
grain-filled
and sprayed.</FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, =
2005 12:06
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded =
Keytops,
problems buffing</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Hi,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Joe had mentioned problems
buffing.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I also have problems in this
area.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on a softer buffing =
wheel, but
have been unable to find a source. The selections available at my
suppliers, are limited. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>Any ideas?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I had thought on slowing the wheel =
down.
Would that help?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>John M. Ross</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial><A
=
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A>
</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=keymaestro@verizon.net
href="mailto:keymaestro@verizon.net">MICHAEL MORVAN</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">Pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, =
2005 11:50
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded =
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> I agree with =
you 100%,
thank you, it is wonderful that you know these things and are =
willing to
share them. Molded keytops are all the same dimension within one =
set.
Keysticks unfortunately are not (except for several sets of =
Yamaha keys
I've covered that were within 0.004 of each other). I've =
found that
most sets of keys differ in length, width and height. I have one =
set of
keys I'm recovering now where the keysticks vary in width up to =
0.065.
This makes recovering them tricky. If you have a keystick wider =
than the
top you will have to trim the stick, if the top is wider you =
will have
to trim the top. Molded tops being the same width have the =
contours and
radiuses "molded" into them, so if you trim this you will, as =
you said
then have to reshape them, the radiuses and contour to match and =
yes,
the dreaded buffing. I prefer to apply what I call custom tops. =
This is
similar to factory procedures in which you apply a =
separate top
and front. If done this way one can trim the excess and shape =
the keys
regardless of the inconsistencies in width and yield good visual =
results. I've found that buffing plastic and ivory both have =
there areas
of concern, but I use different wheels and techniques for both =
with good
results. On the topic of keytop materials, I'm pretty sure =
I have
all of the material available within the states and offer them. =
I have
also acquired material from Aug. Laukhuff and Otto Heuss =
from
Germany as well as P&S organ supply from England. These =
materials
are of very high quality and texture but expense prevents their =
wide
use. I've noticed that piano manufacturers are trending towards =
thicker
and thicker tops, this means replacement tops will need to be =
thicker. I
actually have a stash of keytop material that is 0.105 thick, =
but very
rarely use them. I am not adverse to machining down the keystick =
to
accommodate a new top because I am doing it on milling machines =
with
tolerances to within a few thousandths of an inch, and it must =
be done.
If one measures a keystick at 0.970 and is putting on a top that =
is
0.075 than you machine the key to 0.895 and you have retained =
the
original dimension. The original dimension must be maintained or =
there
will be a regulation nightmare. In some cases I find that a =
keystick has been machined with little regard for tolerances, =
and then a
corrective measure must be applied. Three choices exist, have a =
new
keyboard made, use a thicker or thinner top (depending on which
direction the error is made), or build up the keys. Two of these =
choices
are very expensive. Keytop replacement is tricky and is a =
decision that
should be well thought out. The keyboard is a major focal =
point of
the piano, it is the interaction point with the piano and is the =
foundation of all regulation. It is a challenge to balance =
appearance,
playability and economy. Joe, what do you mean by "stink in my =
shop?"
are you referring to a particular glue or the smell of machining =
off old
plastic and ivory? Mike</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=joegarrett@earthlink.net
href="mailto:joegarrett@earthlink.net">Joe Garrett</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=pianotech@ptg.org
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 06, =
2005 1:03
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Moulded
Keytops</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Michael Morvan said: "<FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3>The quality of the keytop, =
quality of
the =<BR>piano, quality of the rebuild, preference of the =
customer,
knowledge and =<BR>preference of the technician and budget. =
Crappy
"molded" keytops are =<BR>nice if applied properly, and =
three thousand
dollars worth of new ivory =<BR>is "crappy" if not applied =
properly.
Molded keytops have the advantage =<BR>of being inexpensive, =
uniform
in shape and appearance, and relatively =<BR>easy to apply =
with
minimal skill, tooling and yields fair results. A
=<BR>disadvantage is that many people feel that they are a =
cheap top
and as a =<BR>result do not use them."</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>Michael,</DIV>
<DIV>What you've said, I agree with. However, it's what you =
didn't say
about moulded keytops that concerns me.</DIV>
<DIV>1. Moulded keytops assumes that all key sets are the same =
dimension, which they are not. Therefore, trimming is =
necessary. Here
lies the rub, as trimming of moulded keytop material is far =
more
difficult than other materials. Especially in making the key =
set look
consistant and have a smooth feel under the players hands. =
Secondly,
if you've ever had to (try) to buff out scratches of moulded =
key top
material, (and I'm sure you have, if you do keytops for a =
living.),
it's next to impossible, as the material is too soft and will
"burn/gaul" when even light pressure on a buffing wheel is =
applied.
I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's a royal pain in the =
patoot
to do!<G> Lastly, my aversion to moulded keytops is that =
it is
too thick, especially for many older pianos with tight =
tolerances of
the piano furniture. This requires milling the keystick down. =
I am
totally averse to this practice for many reasons. Some of the =
"moulded
keytop material" from Europe is better as some of it is what =
we call
"Plexiglass". This material can be sanded and buffed. It's =
still too
thick for my eye.<G> I too do keytops, but as only part =
of my
overall service to my clients. I used to have someone else do =
it, as I
really don't like the stink in my shop. Out of frustration =
with others
I've taken to doing it....stink or not.<G></DIV>
<DIV>Regards,</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Joe Garrett, =
R.P.T.<BR>Captain, Tool
Police<BR>Squares R
=
I</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCK=
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