<HTML>In a message dated 02/28/2002 8:27:48 AM Central Standard Time, tune4@earthlink.net writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Bill I've used straight edges over the years because they always show me the direct height relationship of adjacent keys.  My current one is a piece of the lightest aluminum angle I can find, one side straightened and the other crowned. Previous recent posts describe the technique I use with double punchings as gauges as described by another subscriber to this list.  The side of the angle that best suits the job is selected. Rarely are more than 2 passes required.  I prefer key weights to hold down the back of the keys.  After leveling is finished, key dip is easily checked and corrected.  Let me know if you need more details. Paul Chick </BLOCKQUOTE> Bill, Paul, I have mentioned this before on the list but it works so well for me it bears mentioning again.  I am not sure who to give credit for the idea but you can make a feeler gauge out of balance rail punchings. Two 3's, two 5's, two 7's and so on, glue two 3's together (only overlapping 1/2) then glue two 5's and glue them to the 3's (same 1/2 overlap) continue to thickest punchings.  I then glue the row to a popsicle stick and there is your feeler gauge.   I looks like this OOOOOOO======.  If need be I can send a picture.                        Slide your gauge between a straight edge and the key and if it fits where the two 5's are overlapped but not where the 5 and 7 are overlapping you will use a 5 ! I like to level with the stack on in the piano, using tape along the front of the keyframe to mark the size punching I need.  I also compress my punchings with a drilled dowel in the same manner that Joe Garrett described in this months Journals TT&T section. I find this method fast and accurate. David Koelzer Vintage Pianos 1702 Doubletree Dr. Mesquite, Tx 75149 214-549-3872 vintagepianos@attbi.com     </HTML>