<HTML>In a message dated 6/25/2002 5:40:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes: <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:Re: Buldoc wood glue Date:6/25/2002 5:40:40 AM Pacific Standard Time From:<A HREF="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> Sent from the Internet       Terry wrote By suggesting a long working time, I meant long reletive to hot hide glue.</BLOCKQUOTE>    Hey Terry <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">>>>>>Oh yeah for sure. any thing is longer than hot hide unless it's retarded with urea. I have heard that David Hughes uses cold hide glue to glue in his soundboards. Is this correct? Does anyone else on this list have any experience with using cold hide glue for critical glue joints such as soundboard-to-rim, bridge-to-soundboard, or for a bridge cap?</BLOCKQUOTE>    >>>>>>>>>>I  use cold hide to glue in the board and to glue the ribs to the board but I think almost any other good wood glue is aplicable for rib to board joints and why not? I've been wondering about using the waterproof tightbond glue for the rib/board joint.   I've used cold hide in rib glue up for its open time and ease of cleanup but also it dries glassy hard in a few weeks as hot hide does. I've used hot hide a time or two to glue on bridge caps. Must move quickly! <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">To remove the Buldoc glue, he recommends moisture to soften it, and then scrape it off. I wouldn't be suprised that it sounds easier than it actually is to do, hence the question above.</BLOCKQUOTE> >>>>>>Probably so          Dale Erwin <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> Terry Farrell   ----- Original Message ----- From: <Erwinspiano@AOL.COM> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2002 10:32 AM Subject: Re: Buldoc wood glue > In a message dated 6/22/2002 2:36:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes: > > > > Subj:Re: Buldoc wood glue > > Date:6/22/2002 2:36:15 AM Pacific Standard Time > > From:<A HREF="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A> > > Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > Sent from the Internet > > > >          I haven't found the working time to be that long. It sets up quite > > quickly which I like for some things.  Also I feel sorry for the next guy > > who trys to pry that substance off the inner rim of a stwy or whatever in > > 40 years or less. Its a Devil to get off .Ask me how I know? > >     Dale Erwin > > > > > I have not used the glue myself, but rather watched Andre and his son, > > Christen, glue in a soundboard and glue in bridges with the glue. His claim > > is that it handles like Titebond (long working time, ease of use), but sets > > up glassy-hard like hide glue. > > > > Terry Farrell > >   > </BLOCKQUOTE> </HTML>