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<DIV><FONT size=2>Not sure about this particular piano but I have =
repaired
several block separations like this successfully. The procedure is =
relatively straight forward and follows along what you suggest. I =
see no
reason why placement of the back posts should be relevent, if they do =
extend
through it will add just that more strenth to the repair. My =
general
method is as follows: Reduce the tension off the piano. =
Remove the
plate screws across the top, (above the tuning pins). If there are =
any
particularly bad areas that extend into other areas, remove some screws =
there as
well if you are able to get to them. With a long bit drill a hole =
through
the screw holes extending all the way through the back side of the
piano. Pour epoxy down the separation through the top, (West =
System
from Pianotek comes to mind). Insert long carriage bolts through =
the holes
from the back of the piano so that the rounded end will fit smooth =
against the
back of the piano. Attach a washer and nut to the plate side and =
tighten
until the separation closes and the bolts are tight. They will =
remain
there permanently in place of the original plate screws. Let the =
piano sit
24 hours to allow the epoxy to completely =
cure. Pull the
tension back up and tune the piano. The repair should be =
permanent.
Note that instead of carriage bolts standard machine bolts with a washer =
may be
used but you should consider countersinking them on the back side so =
that they
will not stick out. The sole purpose of this is to prevent =
them from
gouging a wall behind the piano.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Rob Goodale, RPT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Las Begas, NV</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I just looked at a late 1980s Baldwin studio, =
serial
#1417324, style #4023 (model number?), with a pinblock separating from =
the
back assembly (about a quarter-inch separation). The piano has 3 =
backposts,
but the back assembly is covered with veneers. Does anyone know =
if the
backposts on these pianos extend to the top of the back assembly (top =
of back
assembly also covered with veneers - yes, I will be able to tell when =
I yank
these veneers off - but was curious before I get into it). Any =
knowledge of
this Del? The three top plate screws are centered over the three post
centerlines, so I suspect they may extend up to the top.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>The couple times I have done this repair =
has been
with older instruments where the backposts did extent to the top - and =
of
course I through-bolted through them. If, by chance, this is a piano - =
like
some Kimballs - where the backposts terminate at the base of the top =
back
assembly (about at the pinblock bottom), has anyone done this type of =
repair
on that design? I see no evidence that the rear portion of the upper =
back
assembly has moved - appears that only the pinblock has moved, so I =
suppose it
would be just fine to epoxy and through-bolt to the back of this =
design.
Anyone aware of any pitfalls I might not be seeing here?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Also, any non-bionic technician willing =
to share
how many hours they have taken to do a repair like this - start to =
finish, not
including pitch adjustments and tuning (just clamping, drilling, =
bonding,
bolting and cleanup)?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Thanks</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>