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<DIV><FONT size=3> Dittos David.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> &n=
bsp;
Especially when we are considering how many times a set of key bushings may =
be
replaced in a high use piano. ie. a set of front bushings other year o=
n
the glissando & heavy use pianos. With Pvce it's a<STRONG>
miserable</STRONG> job to get key bushings out & it is
destructive ususally removing mortise wood in the process
thereby changing the nicely machined dimensions of the mortise. I cons=
ider
pvce glue for this application.......well... .... mal practice. <EM><U>flame=
suit on.</U></EM></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> If this is what the asian pianos use for hammer
head/keybushings glue I wish they'd use something else. It's an almost
impossible job to get the stuff off & I've done this often when the shan=
ks
are still basically pristine & worth reusing.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> We've used cold hide glue for hammer hanging for =
years
with great success. It's easily reversible & easy to re-hang treble hamm=
ers
to tweak the strike line for optimal power & sustain & I do thi=
s
often. <EM>It's working time is wonderful &</EM> strength is plenty=
.
Just make sure it's in date.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Joe thanks for all the great info.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000><FONT=
face=Arial><U><FONT size=3>David Love said: "</FONT></U><FONT
face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3><U><FONT size=4>The nicest thing=
about
hide glue is the reversibility.</FONT> <FONT size=4>Removing
bushings</FONT></U><BR><FONT size=4>glued in with PVC-E is a
pain</FONT>. Bushings glued in with hide glue will nearly<BR>fall ou=
t
when saturated with an application of water spiked with a small<BR>amount =
of
the surface tension reducer of your choice. Hammer heads won't<BR>cl=
ick
with hide glue if the fit is reasonable and if you apply it to both<BR>par=
ts
before assembly (and if you use a bit of urea to be sure assembly<BR>takes=
place before the two surfaces gel and won't bond as well).
I've<BR>recently tried using Franklin's Trim and Molding Glue for hammers =
and
it<BR>worked nicely. But I had to remove a set glued on with it and
while it was<BR>no trouble to heat the joint and remove the hammer head, I=
found it<BR>difficult to get all the old glue off the shank. When he=
ated
it turns into<BR>a kind of sticky rubber band that doesn't really come off=
that easily. The<BR>hide glue softens up nicely and can be heated to=
a
crystalline state where<BR>the poorly named "Hammer Shank Reducer" works
quickly and effectively to<BR>remove the old glue without "reducing the
shank</FONT></FONT></FONT></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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